Jimbojames
New member
its the main one, i thought that air was getting in so i changed caps so see if anything changes, still a sound of running water. you think its is not tuned right? and i need to dail it down a little
Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Jimbojames
New member
CAN 1.5 in pvc be too large for my system?
Im running a reeflo dart on a 220, everything is the same as on the bean animal website,
Im running a reeflo dart on a 220, everything is the same as on the bean animal website,
uncleof6
Active member
No, it is not too big for your system. One thing I will say, bean may disagree, is I personally, would NOT run a dart with 1" bulkheads, and I would not put 1" bulkheads on that size of tank.
As far as your noise issue goes, if the siphon is making "noise," air is getting in it. Water tight is not air tight, so it could be getting sucked in anywhere in the line. (This would include cavitation, at the valve, depending on how you are set up.)
There are several possiblities, but with the 1" bulkheads you need a pretty healthy drop to handle the dart, dialing it back would be a waste of the pump, but the dart is a good size for a 220, if the rest is good.
Hi all, I'm trying to design my first marine aquarium, and have been reading through this thread for the last couple of days.
I have read about disadvantages and advantages of both internal and external overflow boxes and have now gained a fairly good idea.
My main concern about all designs is that holes need to be cut in the main back glass for an internal overflow and that a horizontal cut has to be done for an external one.
Due to the above, I tried to think about a design where the cuts on the back glass are minimized (as I'm over obsessed about the idea of weakening the tank).
Can you pls let me know your views in regards to the below design?
I tried to avoid touching the back glass.. which will act as a full coast-to-coast, the return pipes will be on the sides and pass over the back glass to the sides...
Shall I continue to work on this idea? Or are there any particular flaws which I'm not noticing?
I have read about disadvantages and advantages of both internal and external overflow boxes and have now gained a fairly good idea.
My main concern about all designs is that holes need to be cut in the main back glass for an internal overflow and that a horizontal cut has to be done for an external one.
Due to the above, I tried to think about a design where the cuts on the back glass are minimized (as I'm over obsessed about the idea of weakening the tank).
Can you pls let me know your views in regards to the below design?
I tried to avoid touching the back glass.. which will act as a full coast-to-coast, the return pipes will be on the sides and pass over the back glass to the sides...
Shall I continue to work on this idea? Or are there any particular flaws which I'm not noticing?
Attachments
Mrramsey
NEO Reefer
Get some pipe joint compound. It's a thread sealer that you brush onto the pipe threads. It only takes the tiniest pinhole to introduce air into the siphon. Do not use Teflon tape on pvc pipe threads.
Mrramsey
NEO Reefer
I don't think the tank you have designed is structurally sound. The bracing is too far apart and there is no bracing on the back tank wall. You are solely relying on the horizontal back of the overflow for stability of the entire tank. That will be your weakest point.
There are many here who have done a ghost internal weir and just drilled several holes in the back to allow the flow into the external overflow box.
The only way I see your design working is if it was acrylic and the bottom and back of your overflow box was substantially thicker like double the thickness of the tank back.
Hi Mike,
First of all thanks for your interest;
In regards to your comments let me tell you more info about the tank sizes;
So dimensions L:180cm H:70cm D:50cm (approx 550Ltrs / 143G)
Glass thickness 12mm...
I was also concerned about your observations but I've seen a lot of rimless tanks with the same dimensions here...
So if I understand you well; is it the fact that the front glass is making a lot of force on the back glass of the overflow? Wouldn't the rim on the front glass help?
Thanks
FS
First of all thanks for your interest;
In regards to your comments let me tell you more info about the tank sizes;
So dimensions L:180cm H:70cm D:50cm (approx 550Ltrs / 143G)
Glass thickness 12mm...
I was also concerned about your observations but I've seen a lot of rimless tanks with the same dimensions here...
So if I understand you well; is it the fact that the front glass is making a lot of force on the back glass of the overflow? Wouldn't the rim on the front glass help?
Thanks
FS
Jimbojames
New member
If i use pipe joint compound will i be able to open and close the true union ball valve over and over again?
Mrramsey
NEO Reefer
FS: you are bracing the tank from the front glass to the back of the overflow which looks to be 6-8" tall. This is not as strong as the full height tank wall of the same length. It does not seem to me that there would be enough lateral support. This is why I suggest thicker members for the bottom and back of the overflow. Thicker pieces in these locations will increase the structural integrity of the back of the tank.
Mrramsey
NEO Reefer
Yes it is a sealer not a glue.
Syntax1325
Acro Addict
I'm having my tank drilled this weekend and I want to make sure I've got all my dimensions correct so I'm posting here so my numbers can be confirmed or corrected. I have purchased a standard 125g (72x18x24) and am going to be using a Waveline dc10k for my return. I was initially going to use 1" bulkheads but am now going to go with 1.5" instead. Am I safe to assume that my holes can be drilled 2" in diameter (using spears bulkheads)? I plan on drilling three holes 4" apart. The middle of all my holes will be 3.25" below the the top of the frame of the tank.
After the holes are drilled I'll be able to measure my for my internal partial c2c overflow. I plan on placing the top of my c2c level with the bottom trim of the tank and making the depth 1/2" below the main siphon, this should give an acceptable waterfall.
My return will be through two more holes drilled on the back of the tank about 4 inches from the sides and the center point of the holes being 3" below the top of the tank frame. This should give me good surface agitation and allow for minimal back flow to the sump.
What are your thoughts? Especially Uof6.
Yes, I have read almost every post in this thread, just making sure I'm on the right track. Thank you.
After the holes are drilled I'll be able to measure my for my internal partial c2c overflow. I plan on placing the top of my c2c level with the bottom trim of the tank and making the depth 1/2" below the main siphon, this should give an acceptable waterfall.
My return will be through two more holes drilled on the back of the tank about 4 inches from the sides and the center point of the holes being 3" below the top of the tank frame. This should give me good surface agitation and allow for minimal back flow to the sump.
What are your thoughts? Especially Uof6.
Yes, I have read almost every post in this thread, just making sure I'm on the right track. Thank you.
Last edited:
Syntax1325
Acro Addict
Great points. I'll move the weir up 1/4" and move my returns so the outside of the hole is six inches from the sides.
Everything else look good?
Mrramsey
NEO Reefer
I just checked my drawings and my holes for 1" bulkheads are 3-3/4" from the top of the trim so your 1.5" bulkheads at 3-1/2" seem a bit shallow to me. Here is my drawing. Again this is mine with 1" bulkheads and 1.25" elbown in the overflow per Beans original design.
If you can see if you can find the specs for your bulkhead before drilling anything. This way you ensure the proper size hole. It seems to vary from one manufacture to another.
Syntax1325
Acro Addict
The top of the whole needs to be a full diameter below the top of the glass... As long as that is correct then I am good, right?
Jimbojames
New member
Thanks Mike the pipe joint compound, was a hit. I only have like 10 bubbles come out of the full siphon tube, and little tiny baby ones out the open tube. Any other ideas on what to do?
Syntax1325
Acro Addict
MrRamsey, do you find that your 1" bulks heads perform well? I was considering 1" bulkheads. I am a little concerned about flow. If I remember correctly, 1" bulkheads should be able to handle 3000gph... Maybe I need to rethink using larger bulkheads? Hmmm.
Mrramsey
NEO Reefer
Do you have threaded bulkheads? If so disassemble and use the joint compound there as well.
Also on the inside of the overflow, did you glue or just insert the elbows without sealing the joint? I siliconed mine in so the weren't permanent but they have a good seal.
Lastly it could be a pin hole leak in one of the PVC joints. You could swab some medium bodied PVC cement around your fittings where they are glued up. These are not under pressure so it won't take much to seal it.
Mrramsey
NEO Reefer
Yes the 1" perform fine. I did 1" bulkheads and 1.25" pipe. That will handle 2000gph easy. If you go with the 1.5 bulkheads just remember that the overall size is considerably larger than the hole so make sure you are clear of the tank trim.
Mrramsey
NEO Reefer
OK I was not sure of the construction. I would think 12mm glass would be fine but add triangular pieces to support the bottom of the overflow. The idea I am trying to illustrate is to make the back glass and overflow act as one solid structural component. If there is not adequate support disaster will strike.
In your drawing the center braces attached to the front not then to the short depth back of the overflow. That narrow piece of glass would easily be stressed and break.
I will try to draw up a sketch tomorrow morning.
Similar threads
