Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

Hi, new here and I have read several pages but not all. So if this question have been brought up I'm sorry for asking it again.

Anyhow. I've seen that most in here install the beanoverflow through the backside with a internal overflow box alongs the whole lenght of the tank, or by external boxes. I would rather like to lead the 3 pipes thought the glass bottom(inside the aquarium itself) and use a overflow box that goes from the bottom to the top of my tank, preferably more to one of the sides so I get the backside as free as possible.

I wonder. Is there any drawback using this overflow systeme the way I want?
Seems like it's more common when using herbie method.
 
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The main purpose for this system and the coast to coast overflow is superior surface skimming.

Will it work? Sure it would work but why modify a proven system. Herbies are modifications to make stock overflows better.
 
I diden't really see my thought as a modification, it was more a placement question i my mind. Reason wy I is to get as much free backwall surface as possible. Will I lose the silent and safe affect? Perhaps that has something to do with the surface skimming, I don't know much about any of this methods yet.
 
drilled the tank and installed the BA overflow drain!

made about 5 trips to home depot because I had 0 PVC experience before.. need to touch up on the paint. Primer really stripped them down. Haven't done a leak test yet. I HOPE the stripped off paint crumbles wouldn't mess with gluing the PVC together..

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where is everyone putting the airline at? I know it's suppose to work as a second failsafe. But I got nothing to tie it to.
 
I diden't really see my thought as a modification, it was more a placement question i my mind. Reason wy I is to get as much free backwall surface as possible. Will I lose the silent and safe affect? Perhaps that has something to do with the surface skimming, I don't know much about any of this methods yet.


I suppose the safe part will be fine the silent part I can't answer. These were designed to be fairly high flow systems so depending on how wide the weir and how fast the flow is I think would be the determining factor.
 
where is everyone putting the airline at? I know it's suppose to work as a second failsafe. But I got nothing to tie it to.


The airline goes on the secondary drain. The opposite end goes into the overflow above the water level. If the water level rises in the overflow the air supply is cut off and the secondary becomes a full siphon just like the main drain.
 
I suppose the safe part will be fine the silent part I can't answer. These were designed to be fairly high flow systems so depending on how wide the weir and how fast the flow is I think would be the determining factor.

The air vent line inlet goes above the water line, AND above the inlet to the dry emergency. If it is not also above the inlet to the dry emergency, the system will not start properly.

Where to mount it? Use your imagination, and derive a mount for it, attached to the tank in some manner. I use glass pieces for mounts, so it is no big deal to pop a hole in a square piece of glass and silicone the glass square to the tank wall. For rimmed tanks, you can fabricate a similar mount attached to the top rim.
 
I'm a little confused for the moment but thanks for the help guys, I will try to figure something out.
Maybe I can plump the outside and build in the pipes in a wood box, that side will not be vissable anyways. Instead of me trying to explain more here is a sketch. Can I use this kind of overflow box?
I am planing to build a shadow box which is the big reason I want the backwall free. I think if built the right way a box with faux rockwork could look pretty great but of course a good overflow is more important.
 

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Aha I see. I'm still confused about this tho, but I will continue reading. Been so long time since I was beginner in a hobby and now I rember the confused first years from that time.
 
I'm a little confused for the moment but thanks for the help guys, I will try to figure something out.

Maybe I can plump the outside and build in the pipes in a wood box, that side will not be vissable anyways. Instead of me trying to explain more here is a sketch. Can I use this kind of overflow box?

I am planing to build a shadow box which is the big reason I want the backwall free. I think if built the right way a box with faux rockwork could look pretty great but of course a good overflow is more important.


I see what you are doing. There are posts in here where guys have build the overflow on the side wall of the tank when building a peninsula tank such as a room divider. Again not the optimal setup but it works. I don't really see the point of losing all of that space with a full height overflow. Just do the ~ 4"x5" glass overflow on the side then you still have the entire bottom footprint of your tank unobstructed.
 
I don't really see the point of losing all of that space with a full height overflow. Just do the ~ 4"x5" glass overflow on the side then you still have the entire bottom footprint of your tank unobstructed.

I have had my ideas how to aquascape and thought it would be easier to just cover up a black box like that. But you are right, a glass overflow will make it easier for me so that is what I will go with.
 
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I am ready to drill. I plan on drilling my holes 3 3/4 inches from the top of my 4 foot 120. Does this sound right? Where is the top of the upturned emergency elbow supposed to be in relation to the weir height? I thought it should be even or slightly lower than the weir height. Now Im not so sure.

I just want to get the holes at the right level.

Thanks for the help.
 
The emergency is just that. At the point that the emergency is seeing water the weir does not matter. Mine is pretty much even with the top. It will vary to some degree based on the manufacture of the fittings.
 
The top of the weir should be even with the bottom of the trim on the outside of the tank. The holes should be a minimum of (depending on the hole size, to center) 2 3/4" down from the top edge of the glass. (that is 3.25" down from the top of a rimmed tank, but the holes are placed according to the top edge of the glass. The dry emergency inlet should be below the top edge of the glass (back wall of the tank.) So right around the top of the weir, or a little below is certainly fine.

The holes can be further down on the back of the tank, but the waterfall height (think noise) will increase as you lower the position of the holes.
 
The holes can be further down on the back of the tank, but the waterfall height (think noise) will increase as you lower the position of the holes.

Uncleof6 is right, but after running mine for 9 months I would advise people to put the siphon lower than the bare minimum depth or at least make the box deeper than the bare minimum required with a down pipe on the internal siphon elbow. It isnt necessary to the design, but it seems to give a wider band of silent siphon flow and makes it easier to tune the gate valve to a point in between the "trickling noisily down the open channel" and "sucking air into the full siphon" points which is where you want to live.
 
So I have an issue, and I am not too sure how to proceed... I have two drilled overflow holes in my backpack overflow. They are 1.5" bulkheads, that are adapted to 1" to fit the sump bulkheads.

Just how unwise is it to use this overflow methodology without the emergency drain? Am I out of luck? I am running at about 2000 gallons or less per hour.

The good news is that I do not have snails in my system, and a great overflow (With high teeth to protect the two pipes.

Any help would be hugely appreciated.
 
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