Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[kegogut]

Ok,so by increasing the length of the drain pipes into the sump from 1" to 3" gave enough head pressure in the overflow to raise the water line in the overflow to get rid of the drop that was creating the waterfall sound that was driving me nuts.

Its working flawlessly now.

 

[uncleof6]

Ok,so by increasing the length of the drain pipes into the sump from 1" to 3" gave enough head pressure in the overflow to raise the water line in the overflow to get rid of the drop that was creating the waterfall sound that was driving me nuts.

Its working flawlessly now.

So I would have to say it is not working properly, whether it seems to be flawless or not. Especially if the siphon and open channel are at the same level. I would have to say that the siphon is not purging the air, because the open channel is taking too much flow. Why? Because the water level is too high, and the system is not properly adjusted. Good luck though...

 

[kegogut]

So I would have to say it is not working properly, whether it seems to be flawless or not. Especially if the siphon and open channel are at the same level. I would have to say that the siphon is not purging the air, because the open channel is taking too much flow. Why? Because the water level is too high, and the system is not properly adjusted. Good luck though...

Well its draining water silently so seems like its working well enough for me. So thanks anyway for your words of encouragement, Mr. high and mighty...

 

[samba]

help please Bean

help please Bean

Hi Bean. I'm 20 pages in to this thread but the deadline for ordering my new tank is looming. Please indulge me if you would.

I want to do a small internal coast to coast on my 3 footer(maybe 1.5" front to back)plus a normal size one on the back to accommodate the plumbing. The new tank will be rimless/braceless so want to incorporate the return without looking clumsy...whether that means a bulkhead in the corner or over the top not sure. What do you reckon?
My main question s though concern the dimensions of the two overflows. I will see if the manufacturer will cut the lip down on the back wall of the tank to make the transition seemless. Just not sure how deep(top to bottom+ back to front for that matter) the smaller internal overflow needs to be and how far down the tank lip needs to be cut, and whether all the way across (full length)?
Also can the bulkheads be placed anywhere along the weir?
Cheers!

 

[Drama]

Dumb question but I got to ask, what size hole do I need to drill for a 1" slip bulkhead? 1 1/2"? Or 1"?
Im planning to run an internal bean overflow similar to 4hummers', never drilled a tank before and am trying to figure out hole saw bit size. Sorry for the dumb question

 

[Drama]

Seems as though my post are being deleted by some one.
I have a question. .. dont judge. Lol
What size hole saw bit do I need for a 1" bulk head? 1 1/2" or 1"? Ive never drilled a tank before.
Plan is to build an internal bean overflow similar to 4hummers build

 

[Mrramsey]

Dumb question but I got to ask, what size hole do I need to drill for a 1" slip bulkhead? 1 1/2"? Or 1"?
Im planning to run an internal bean overflow similar to 4hummers', never drilled a tank before and am trying to figure out hole saw bit size. Sorry for the dumb question

Mine was a 48mm for a 1" schedule 80 bulkhead. I think the schedule 40 was 45 or 46mm. They are not all the same so don't just take this at face value. I bought my bulkhead and bit from BRS.

 

[SGT_York]

The hole size is determined by the bulkhead manufacturer they are mostly standard 45mm, but there are a few oddballs out there. If you look on the web at reputable sites they will list the bulkhead size with the required hole diameter.

 

[SGT_York]

Well its draining water silently so seems like its working well enough for me. So thanks anyway for your words of encouragement, Mr. high and mighty...

Not the best method or language for expressing opinions.

I concur with Uncle never use your sump as a reverse pressure to slow down your flow rate.

The proper way to raise your overflow water level is to leave the siphon line deep, and only raise the open channel and dry emergency intakes. Make sure you start the pump with a closed siphon valve to ensure your dry emergency and open channel can handle 100% of the flow.

 

[schlegelli46]

Ok, I've searched until my eyesight has started flickering...can the 3 drain lines be merged into 1 just before sump or otherwise?

 

[chucklez]

I asked the same question myself many moons ago and the answer i received was no. The reason is if you merge them, then the system will be unable to create a siphon, therebye decreasing the amount of water it will pull through.

I have 2 125g in walls running into the same sump. on 1 of them i had to drill and installed a bean overflow system and the other is a herbie. The main and the secondary drain on the bean system ONLY drain themselves. The emergency I merged into the drain from my herbie 125. Perhaps that wasnt correct, but I havent had a problem with the system. The emergency never gets wet. Only complaint I have with that is I can hear a gurgle on the emergency coming from the herbie.

*EDIT* Truly only need a valve to restrict the flow on the main drain. I would recommend a gate valve on that. Found a plumbing site online that had 1.5" gate valves for half the cost of brick and mortar stores around me. I think it was 14.95 or something like that. Free shipping on orders over $75.

 

[kegogut]

I didnt use the sump to slow down the flow, I used it to create more pressure in my overflow.

 

[schlegelli46]

Thanks chucklez, I figured as much but wanted to double check.

 

[Ontheway]

Already answered, but let me repeat, if you connect all together, 2nd & 3rd pipes will act as "airline" for the first pipe, siphon, so it will fail to function, or if enough water remain in oflow, they may try to be a one big siphon..

 

[Drama]

Thanks for the info fellas

 

[samba]

Many here could probably answer this for me. Has anyone had made or cut the back lip of a tank down on a rimless/braceless tank (36Lx18Wx24"H...12mm starphire) and been able to attach an external overflow straight on the back?(ie no internal weir attached). Is that even viable?

I'm asking because I'm trying to draw up plans for my new tank as per above and want an external bean animal. Question is really do I need an internal weir as well?

 

[uncleof6]

Cutting, removing, altering, or otherwise messing with the 'rim,' 'trim,' or any other part of the bracing system for a tank engineered to require them, reduces the structural integrity of the tank. This includes notching the back glass panel. It is ill advised to mess with it. Rimless tanks use thicker glass than rimmed tanks, for the same size tank.

Since you cannot change the tank itself, in the manner you wish, and since a 'weir' is required for a functional overflow, the only option is an internal overflow, that leads to an external box containing the plumbing parts. This question has be asked repetitively in both this thread and other threads, though it is easy enough to miss the answer which is always the same.

Your other option is to have a custom rimless tank built that will meet your requirements.

 

[pdiehm]

wish there were some folks around northern delaware who are experienced in setting this overflow and plumbing up. when the time comes, I sure would love the help

 

[samba]

Thanks uncleof6. I am effectively getting the tank custom built, I was just trying to avoid the lengthy back and forth process with the retailer who then has to deal with the manufacturer and get back to me.
If the rear panel is etched/ shaped before assembly what thickness do you think it would need to be? Or would it alternatively need bracing in conjunction?

 

[uncleof6]

The builder (if they are familiar with rimless tanks) will decide what the glass thickness needs to be. If they have to ask you about it, ummmm...find another builder? 15mm with a 25mm bottom panel. (22mm actually, but there is no such thing, I would probably use 19mm on the bottom.) Differences are going to be due to the use of optomistic estimates of the actual tenisle strength of the glass in hand.