Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

I'm closer to case 2 and you're probably right that I wouldn't need to remove the elbow for access purposes.

The only reason I could see would be if I had to remove the internal run (in the overflow box - as you may recall mine has 3 center drilled bulkheads so the system is not behind the overflow box) and needed to be able to unscrew one (the bulkheads are thread x thread).
 
Here is what I'm trying to work with:
IMG_1743.jpg


The pipes to the right are both 1/2" and the pipe in the left side of the (tiny) overflow box is 1". I figured I'd use the 1/2" pipes as the siphon and open standpipe and the 1" as the emergency dry overflow. I don't think I'll be able to fit a tee and 90 on the emergency pipe, so I was thinking just a strainer...in theory it should never come into play, right?
Should I put larger (3/4") tee and 90 fittings on the 1/2" pipes?
 
I am a proponent of the BA system, but you don't want to be doing a BA in that little overflow box. The discussion sorta ends there. Look into the herbie.
 
I'm closer to case 2 and you're probably right that I wouldn't need to remove the elbow for access purposes.

The only reason I could see would be if I had to remove the internal run (in the overflow box - as you may recall mine has 3 center drilled bulkheads so the system is not behind the overflow box) and needed to be able to unscrew one (the bulkheads are thread x thread).

I have not forgotten your system config. Case 2. How you actually put it together is entirely up to you.
 
The idea behind the non-hardening sealant is you can loosen it, and retighten it without it starting to leak. Be careful and experiment with it. Nothing is written in stone 100% of the time.

Final question for confirmation (double checking in the name of my animals): Using that Spears 75 Non-Hardening Sealant is safe when in constant contact with aquarium water?
 
Need advice

Need advice

Hello

I post this as a separate thread but I did not get an answer

I decide to build new fresh water tank for my young Cichlid with Beananimal overflow external box and want advice for tank building.

csToAj.jpg

Tank 150cmX40cmX50cm WxDxH, with 2 top brace 150cmX7cm, all regular 10mm Glass, panels will seal around the bottom, the tank will seal with injection silicone method with 2.5mm gap.

GkOEep.jpg

External Overflow Box 23cmX12cmX20cm WxDxH,all regular 10mm Glass.

Are there any errors in the design of the tank

What I fear it is the weight of glass overflow box, I searched in the forum for that but I did not get an adequate answer
did i must support the overflow external box from falling, and how ?, the weight of the box will be about 15kg (glass+water)

thanks
 
The glass to silicone bond should be sufficient but if you are still concerned, external support means should be easy enough to fabricate. To that end, if the standpipes are short, straight and fully SECURED to the stand (they always should be fully secured), they will add support to the box.

You will be well served by rounding the transitions for the slot, this will prevent stress fracturing at those locations.
 
Hello BeanAnimal

thank Thank you for caring

The glass to silicone bond should be sufficient but if you are still concerned, external support means should be easy enough to fabricate. To that end, if the standpipes are short, straight and fully SECURED to the stand (they always should be fully secured), they will add support to the box.

I get the point of supporting the box by secured the standpipes to the stand

You will be well served by rounding the transitions for the slot, this will prevent stress fracturing at those locations.

but sorry can't understand this part


can you explain please

thank you
 
Are there any errors in the design of the tank

Would it make sense to add the same euro bracing to the sides as you have in your model running the lengths? It would seem to me that that would add a bit of strength to the structure including where the overflow box is attached.
 
If you look in the OP's thread, you will see that i covered the construction fairly well. This thread is about the drain system, I touch on some tank construction here, but not much. But you are right.
 
Would it make sense to add the same euro bracing to the sides as you have in your model running the lengths? It would seem to me that that would add a bit of strength to the structure including where the overflow box is attached.

thank you for your point

If you look in the OP's thread, you will see that i covered the construction fairly well. This thread is about the drain system, I touch on some tank construction here, but not much. But you are right.

sure uncleof6 is explain in detail the errors in the design in another thread

thank you all especially BeanAnimal the owner of the basic idea

thank you
 
I have been using the system for 2 years now without an issue at all and really like it. My sump is in my basement. I just got a new tank and my overflow box is on the back wall of the tank. My previous tank had the overflow on the right hand side. On the old setup I didn't have any elbows besides one on each line all the way before the bottom by the sump. I was wondering if elbows will have any effect on how the system works because I don't want to have to drill 3 more holes in my floor then subfloor and then basement ceiling to get to my sump. I would really rather use the existing holes but that would mean I would have a few elbows to get to them.


Thanks,

Adam
 
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