Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[uncleof6]

Has anybody been able to see it? Does everything look okay with the drains?

Also the return. Ive heard that using tees isnt good but how else can I get two return lines? Will it be better if I make it so the tee goes straight through to the bulkhead on the left and branches off to the right to the other bulkhead on the right?

The drains look fine.

It is better to not use tees for the return, and use as few fittings as possible for all your plumbing. A 70 gallon tank is too small to justify the use of dual returns. It is not going to accomplish anything of value. Power heads mix the return water to all points in the tank. Dual returns just complicates the plumbing. Use a single return up over the back of the tank, one size larger than the pump outlet size, with the outlet just below the water surface. Get rid of the lock line also, nothing but hobby gimmicks, that restrict and reduce the flow.

 

[NaCi]

Thank you for the reply uncleof6. Oh ok. I forgot about the powerheads inside circulating all the return water. So I'll just plumb one return line.

Just to be clear do I use one size larger then the pump outlet size on the whole return line? Or just the end where it goes in the tank? The pump I was thinking about getting is the sicce 5.0 and its outlet size is 3/4"-1". So a 1.5".

Also do you recommend I put something at the end of the return line to prevent snails from going in? Or will the flow be to great to worry about that?

 

[uncleof6]

Thank you for the reply uncleof6. Oh ok. I forgot about the powerheads inside circulating all the return water. So I'll just plumb one return line.

Just to be clear do I use one size larger then the pump outlet size on the whole return line? Or just the end where it goes in the tank? The pump I was thinking about getting is the sicce 5.0 and its outlet size is 3/4"-1". So a 1.5".

Also do you recommend I put something at the end of the return line to prevent snails from going in? Or will the flow be to great to worry about that?

Snails are not going to go in the return!

There are better pumps than the Sicce, looking at recent comments concerning them. But you want at least one size larger than the pump outlet size minimum. For the pump you mention, that would be 1" if you using the 3/4" outlet or 1.25" if using the 1" outlet. On the other hand, 1.5" is even better. This is the entire length of the return, no reducing, or restricting, other than at your main flow gate valve.

 

[NaCi]

Oh ok cool. Those sneaky snails.

Yeah I dont think I am going to get the sicce anymore. Will the waveline dc 6000 do the trick? It's a $6 more than the sicce and it has variable speed. Also if I buy this pump at aquatic warehouse they will give me a $20 livestock credit!

The dc 6000 outlet external diameter is 32 mm so 1.26 inches. So now I can use that 1.5 return line pipe right?

Now to connect to the bigger pipe I'll need to get another adapter. Should I use tubing to connect to the pvc? Or just hard plumb the whole thing. I want it to be as quiet as possible.

Thanks for your help uncleof6.

 

[uncleof6]

Oh ok cool. Those sneaky snails.

Yeah I dont think I am going to get the sicce anymore. Will the waveline dc 6000 do the trick? It's a $6 more than the sicce and it has variable speed. Also if I buy this pump at aquatic warehouse they will give me a $20 livestock credit!

The dc 6000 outlet external diameter is 32 mm so 1.26 inches. So now I can use that 1.5 return line pipe right?

Now to connect to the bigger pipe I'll need to get another adapter. Should I use tubing to connect to the pvc? Or just hard plumb the whole thing. I want it to be as quiet as possible.

Thanks for your help uncleof6.

For a 70 gallon tank, the DC6000 is plenty. I am talking about RLSS, not Jebao, which I know little about.

1.5" pipe would be my choice. On the plumbing, the rlss pumps are rather quiet, in a sufficient volume of water (return section.) You will find that fittings for tubing will be somewhat restrictive, and not conducive to good flow.

Say hi to Pat, if he is still around.

 

[NaCi]

Alright well I think I am ready to start ordering and have a February christmas.

Yes I'm getting the RLSS waveline. I think I'll have to buy an adapter for the 1.5" pipe then. I have a 40 gallon sump so hopefully it's sufficient.


Okay I will. I think that's all the questions I have for now concerning this matter, I feel a lot better. Thanks for all the help uncleof6.

 

[jc03]

I'm sure this had been asked a million times but my search didn't find anything. Does the order of the standpipes for the BA matter? My thought was to put the siphon first (closest to the middle of the tank) and more centered in the overflow box. Does it matter? Thanks.

 

[uncleof6]

Doesn't matter.

 

[jc03]

Doesn't matter.

Thanks Uncle

 

[sleepydoc]

I'm planning a coast to coast conversion of my 120 corner flow. I've got the weir height (=tank water level) at the bottom of the trim and the bottom of the overflow about ¾" below the bottom of the elbows, but need to confirm the depth of the bulkhead holes relative to the weir.

When a beananimal system is functioning properly, where is the approximate water level in the overflow relative to the elbows? Ultimately this determines the water drop over the weir and the bulkhead hole height.

I did see a post indicating that it is approximately the top of the downturned elbows, but this doesn't make complete sense to me as it seems like that would put too much flow through the open channel, but I could be wrong on this.

 

[uncleof6]

Water level generally is in the upper 1/2 of the elbow. (above horizontal center-line.)

However, the hole placement is well documented in this thread, and is a Most Frequently Asked Question.... it gets very laborious to keep going over and over it time and again.

 

[sleepydoc]

Thanks - I know I've read it sometime before and actually did go back through the last couple of month's worth of posts (as well as Bean's description) but didn't see it.

The problem with this thread is it is so big that finding any given piece of information gets quite difficult, hence the repetition. Like I've commented before - It would be nice to have a Beananimal reference page that could be referred to and/or updated as necessary. As nice as a forum like this can be, it doesn't lend itself well to that.

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

it gets very laborious to keep going over and over it time and again.

But uncle, that's what you live for...

 

[uncleof6]

Thanks - I know I've read it sometime before and actually did go back through the last couple of month's worth of posts (as well as Bean's description) but didn't see it.

The problem with this thread is it is so big that finding any given piece of information gets quite difficult, hence the repetition. Like I've commented before - It would be nice to have a Beananimal reference page that could be referred to and/or updated as necessary. As nice as a forum like this can be, it doesn't lend itself well to that.

I know my friend, I know. But I posted it and I know it is there. Even posted an image. Maybe one day Bean and I might get together and work on that, or maybe Bean will do it on his own. But it is a great deal of work. You and I have discussed that before.

For 1" bulkhead, 1" elbows. Do your own measurements, not all things are equal. 2.75" from the trim lip inside of the tank is the minimum. You do not want to cut a hole closer than 1.75" to the top edge of the glass, which is up inside the trim, and the bulkhead won't fit that high anyway. These are minimums. Mock it up before touching the glass with a hole cutter. Water fall height: 1" - 1.5", if you have a long weir is good enough. (I don't remember why the other hole is there.

 

[uncleof6]

But uncle, that's what you live for...

No I don't, I just don't want to tell folks to look it up and stop asking altogether.

 

[jc03]

I'm mocking up the plumbing for my Beananimal. I can get I to my sump using two 45s but 90s would get me to the middle of the sump with the full siphon. Is it so much better for gph to use the 45s and dump the water right over the edge of the sump or can I get away with the 90s and have a nice run into the center/end of the sump? Everything's 2". I'm underpumped right now at around 2500 gph but would like room when I upgrade. Thanks. Here's a couple pics to kind of demonstrate. Nothing glued or measured correctly.

 

[uncleof6]

The water needs to get into the sump, and it does not matter where it enters the particular section. Just over the edge is just fine, and using 45s will give you better flow characteristics.

 

[rickztahone]

I know my friend, I know. But I posted it and I know it is there. Even posted an image. Maybe one day Bean and I might get together and work on that, or maybe Bean will do it on his own. But it is a great deal of work. You and I have discussed that before.

For 1" bulkhead, 1" elbows. Do your own measurements, not all things are equal. 2.75" from the trim lip inside of the tank is the minimum. You do not want to cut a hole closer than 1.75" to the top edge of the glass, which is up inside the trim, and the bulkhead won't fit that high anyway. These are minimums. Mock it up before touching the glass with a hole cutter. Water fall height: 1" - 1.5", if you have a long weir is good enough. (I don't remember why the other hole is there.

Thanks uncle :wavehand:

 

[sleepydoc]

Yes, thank you! It looks remarkably like what I have mapped out, but it's always nice to confirm things before you drill a hole that's in the wrong spot! :facepalm:

 

[uncleof6]

Yes, thank you! It looks remarkably like what I have mapped out, but it's always nice to confirm things before you drill a hole that's in the wrong spot! :facepalm:

Posted that just recently in this thread I believe, prior to yesterday...