Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

Alright :D well I think I am ready to start ordering and have a February christmas.

Yes I'm getting the RLSS waveline. I think I'll have to buy an adapter for the 1.5" pipe then. I have a 40 gallon sump so hopefully it's sufficient.


Okay I will. I think that's all the questions I have for now concerning this matter, I feel a lot better. Thanks for all the help uncleof6.
 
I'm sure this had been asked a million times but my search didn't find anything. Does the order of the standpipes for the BA matter? My thought was to put the siphon first (closest to the middle of the tank) and more centered in the overflow box. Does it matter? Thanks.
 
I'm planning a coast to coast conversion of my 120 corner flow. I've got the weir height (=tank water level) at the bottom of the trim and the bottom of the overflow about ¾" below the bottom of the elbows, but need to confirm the depth of the bulkhead holes relative to the weir.

When a beananimal system is functioning properly, where is the approximate water level in the overflow relative to the elbows? Ultimately this determines the water drop over the weir and the bulkhead hole height.

I did see a post indicating that it is approximately the top of the downturned elbows, but this doesn't make complete sense to me as it seems like that would put too much flow through the open channel, but I could be wrong on this.
 
Water level generally is in the upper 1/2 of the elbow. (above horizontal center-line.)

However, the hole placement is well documented in this thread, and is a Most Frequently Asked Question.... it gets very laborious to keep going over and over it time and again.
 
Thanks - I know I've read it sometime before and actually did go back through the last couple of month's worth of posts (as well as Bean's description) but didn't see it.

The problem with this thread is it is so big that finding any given piece of information gets quite difficult, hence the repetition. Like I've commented before - It would be nice to have a Beananimal reference page that could be referred to and/or updated as necessary. As nice as a forum like this can be, it doesn't lend itself well to that.
 
sleepydoc said:
Thanks - I know I've read it sometime before and actually did go back through the last couple of month's worth of posts (as well as Bean's description) but didn't see it.

The problem with this thread is it is so big that finding any given piece of information gets quite difficult, hence the repetition. Like I've commented before - It would be nice to have a Beananimal reference page that could be referred to and/or updated as necessary. As nice as a forum like this can be, it doesn't lend itself well to that.
Click to expand...

I know my friend, I know. But I posted it and I know it is there. Even posted an image. :) Maybe one day Bean and I might get together and work on that, or maybe Bean will do it on his own. But it is a great deal of work. You and I have discussed that before.

For 1" bulkhead, 1" elbows. Do your own measurements, not all things are equal. 2.75" from the trim lip inside of the tank is the minimum. You do not want to cut a hole closer than 1.75" to the top edge of the glass, which is up inside the trim, and the bulkhead won't fit that high anyway. These are minimums. Mock it up before touching the glass with a hole cutter. Water fall height: 1" - 1.5", if you have a long weir is good enough. (I don't remember why the other hole is there.

Capture_zps1c7eda03.png
 
I'm mocking up the plumbing for my Beananimal. I can get I to my sump using two 45s but 90s would get me to the middle of the sump with the full siphon. Is it so much better for gph to use the 45s and dump the water right over the edge of the sump or can I get away with the 90s and have a nice run into the center/end of the sump? Everything's 2". I'm underpumped right now at around 2500 gph but would like room when I upgrade. Thanks. Here's a couple pics to kind of demonstrate. Nothing glued or measured correctly.

 
Last edited by a moderator:
The water needs to get into the sump, and it does not matter where it enters the particular section. Just over the edge is just fine, and using 45s will give you better flow characteristics.
 
uncleof6 said:
I know my friend, I know. But I posted it and I know it is there. Even posted an image. :) Maybe one day Bean and I might get together and work on that, or maybe Bean will do it on his own. But it is a great deal of work. You and I have discussed that before.

For 1" bulkhead, 1" elbows. Do your own measurements, not all things are equal. 2.75" from the trim lip inside of the tank is the minimum. You do not want to cut a hole closer than 1.75" to the top edge of the glass, which is up inside the trim, and the bulkhead won't fit that high anyway. These are minimums. Mock it up before touching the glass with a hole cutter. Water fall height: 1" - 1.5", if you have a long weir is good enough. (I don't remember why the other hole is there.

Capture_zps1c7eda03.png
Click to expand...

Thanks uncle :wavehand:
 
Yes, thank you! It looks remarkably like what I have mapped out, but it's always nice to confirm things before you drill a hole that's in the wrong spot! :facepalm:
 
Nothing I'm looking into is working out, so I'm going to be going with a standard overflow box peninsula style on a 180. The question I have is how large to make the drains? 1", 1.5", or larger? I'm not sure which pump I'm going to use for a return, just want to make sure I don't go too small for the drains. I realize that I won't be getting the major benefit of the surface skimming this way, but since the tank is going upstairs I want to be safe. Has anyone done an internal overflow without teeth to get better surface skimming?
 
Pprice01 said:
Nothing I'm looking into is working out, so I'm going to be going with a standard overflow box peninsula style on a 180. The question I have is how large to make the drains? 1", 1.5", or larger? I'm not sure which pump I'm going to use for a return, just want to make sure I don't go too small for the drains. I realize that I won't be getting the major benefit of the surface skimming this way, but since the tank is going upstairs I want to be safe. Has anyone done an internal overflow without teeth to get better surface skimming?
Click to expand...

Probably thousands have done an internal without teeth. Calfo's C2C has been around for a long time. I have done a couple three hundred, if I have done one.

Since you have not made the decisions you need to make, before building this thing, you are getting way ahead of yourself. You need to pick a flow rate, 10x, 100x, XXx... you need the length of the drop, to figure out the drain sizes, you need a return plumbing configuration to do the friction loss calcs at that flow rate, to figure out what pumps you can and can't use. You should not think about buying anything or cutting any holes, before the paperwork is done. :)
 
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