Silent and Failsafe Overflow System

[BeanAnimal]

Technically speaking, the siphon standpipe is the only one that needs a valve. That said, I like having the versatility of valves on all three standpipes. That valve on the siphon standpipe can be down at sump level.

 

[October Sky]

Technically speaking, the siphon standpipe is the only one that needs a valve. That said, I like having the versatility of valves on all three standpipes. That valve on the siphon standpipe can be down at sump level.

Thanks so much. I really don't know why I bought the extra valves, and I actually lost the first purchase somewhere in my home, so now I have 4 extra valves as soon as I find them.

I have decided on doing an algae reactor split off from my return pump, so at least one of the valves will go to good use.

As to placement of the valve on the siphon, I may need to put it up. Just finished the framing of the stand and it may be problematic where I wanted it in my head.

 

[monkiboy]

Advertising your sale in the main forums isn't allowed.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Thanks so much. I really don't know why I bought the extra valves, and I actually lost the first purchase somewhere in my home, so now I have 4 extra valves as soon as I find them.

I have decided on doing an algae reactor split off from my return pump, so at least one of the valves will go to good use.

As to placement of the valve on the siphon, I may need to put it up. Just finished the framing of the stand and it may be problematic where I wanted it in my head.

Just place it wherever is convenient.

 

[Overgrown]

Have been running this system for years and have the basics down as far as how to plumb one properly thanks to Bean and Jim. My issue now is that I went to a smaller sump on my
Latest build, which seems to have been a poor choice. Display is 200 gallons with an approx 40 gallon sump. The standpipes exit into a baffle chamber that is only approx 4” wide, (drains terminate less than an inch into the water line). The high turbulence from the siphon rebounds off the floor of the sump at high velocity and careens over said baffle into the sock chamber, which creates microbubbles that don’t dissipate since the sump is fairly small and there isn’t much of a bubble trap down stream prior to the return pump compartment. I’m guessing I need to design a larger sump, just wondering if others have experience this. This wasn’t an issue with my larger sump on my older system. The solution I foresee is to design a sump with a larger compartment accepting the standpipes(say a foot long) so the flow from the siphon “slows down” prior to careening over a baffle, and install and under- over- under bubble trap further downstream after a skimmer chamber. I should add that socks do aid in the microbubbles but I honestly want to get away from using them. Since this isn’t directly secondary to operation of the Bean itself, I can create a separate thread, just wondering if others have had similar issues and could weigh in. Would rather not sacrifice turnover to accommodate a smaller sump I suppose, just curious if my thinking is accurate.

 

[Lsufan]

Sounds like u eighther have a shallow first section or a ton of flow, or a combination of both. I’m not sure it would help all that much making the section bigger, but it would help making it deeper.

I have basically the same sump setup on my 150 dt. My plumbing is 1.5”, & I also have a 4” section for the drains. The first baffle that holds the socks is eighther 13 or 14” tall & I have ran as much as 1200 gph & didn’t have that issue. If your syphon enters the sump close to one side then u can try placing a 45 on the end of the pipe so all the force isn’t going straight down.

Using beans design & a property tuned skimmer u can get away without a bubble trap a lot of the time because neighther create bubbles. Running a ton of flow thru a small sump is one of those instances where a bubble trap may be needed.

 

[BeanAnimal]

Under over is the proper baffles design If bubbles are a concern. The first under ensures that most of the tiny bubbles rise to the surface and pop instead of traveling to the next compartment. With an over baffle first, the bubbles rise and go over the falls. The velocity of the water carries the all the way through. The over baffle sets the intake compartment water level. If the ATO is set to the over height, then bubbles that do make it to the over baffle will stay on the surface, as the main sumo compartment has more volume and a lower velocity, with no waterfall due to the ATO set height.

I added a second under baffle becuase I wanted to force the water through a wall of live rock on the sump. The high velocity deep in the sump kept most detritus from settling, compared to the under, single over setup.

If I did it again, it would be simply under over and I would use the large main sump compartment as a purposeful detritus trap with no live rock.

As mentioned above, most folks end up making the problem worse by adding a bunch of bafffles that create a waterfall and high velocity water that entertains bubbles. One more case of urban reefing legend that gets passed on daily with little thought to how silly it really is.

 

[IUfan]

Just setting up my 240G. I bought a Modular Marine Overflow. Now I'm about to start plumbing it.

I've plumbed a beananimal from outside before, but I need some advice for plumbing it inside the box.

1. What height should I make the standpipe inside the box?

2. Do I need to make each standpipe different height?

3. Can I buy a 180 U-bend for internal use? Or better to buy 2 90's and join them together?

4. Anyone have any instructional pictures/videos etc so I don't mess this up? Haha


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[rocking]

This has been a fun lay out to get things done right !i am running a guitman model 6000 max head presher is 1400 gph and I am running it at 613 gig through a 1 inch short standpipe of the bean overflow but first part of my set up to feed the bean overflow is a triple system starting out with a 50 Micron filter pad going to a 100 Micron carbon filter pad into heavy Metal remover then into bio balls around the intake of the bean standpipes into a trigger sump does anyone see a problem with this ?

 

[Misled]

PB links repaired where possible.

 

[Floyd R Turbo]

What's your trick for repairing them?

 

[Misled]

Adding ~original between jpeg and

 

[BeanAnimal]

One of the more irritating issues I run into on the internet is missing photos from defunct hosting accounts.

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

One of the more irritating issues I run into on the internet is missing photos from defunct hosting accounts.

I agree, there are so many threads that have instantly became worthless because of that.

 

[BeanAnimal]

I try to host all of my own photos... then again I could get hit by a bus and somebody could forget to feed the server.

 

[Misled]

Hey Bill and Jimmy!!!

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

Hello Jesse, been a while...

 

[BeanAnimal]

Hiya Guys... yep, don't get a chance to post much anymore. I lurk and a thankful that so many folks help answer questions.

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

Well it's always an honor to see the guy responsible for many many flood free tanks... hehe

I've gotten lazy in the last few years, is there a consolidated, updated site that has your design laid out for us lazy folks?

 

[BeanAnimal]

Working on it - beananimal.com will be fully revamped very soon (I have been working on it a few times a week). It should go live soon.