Silent and Failsafe Overflow System
- Thread starter JohnL
- Start date
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Hello Jesse, been a while...
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Hiya Guys... yep, don't get a chance to post much anymore. I lurk and a thankful that so many folks help answer questions.
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Well it's always an honor to see the guy responsible for many many flood free tanks... hehe
I've gotten lazy in the last few years, is there a consolidated, updated site that has your design laid out for us lazy folks?
I've gotten lazy in the last few years, is there a consolidated, updated site that has your design laid out for us lazy folks?
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
Working on it - beananimal.com will be fully revamped very soon (I have been working on it a few times a week). It should go live soon.
Sisterlimonpot
Premium Member
Years ago i read that article and I used the your return setup with great success on a 75 gal. however I have read many different variations to your design coupled with either a weir or coast to coast drain. there were pros and cons of each but I don't remember... In a month or so I will be turning my attention to plumbing my 300 and I want to be as current with the information as possible without combing through tons and tons of posts.
It makes sense that it's under construction, because I went to your website last night and noticed there were a lot of supporting pictures missing....
It makes sense that it's under construction, because I went to your website last night and noticed there were a lot of supporting pictures missing....
Last edited:
Upsizing the Bean Animal Pipes from the bulkhead size
Upsizing the Bean Animal Pipes from the bulkhead size
Does anyone know if it's worth upsizing the drain pipes after a 1" bulkhead to 1 1/4 and likewise in the overflow box on all 3 lines? I know the Durso utilizes the upsizing for the open channel pipe. Obviously it would be easier to not upsize because of all of the reducer bushings/adapters required to change the size. Also is a gate valve really useful on the siphon line or is a ball valve adequate?
[/URL][/IMG]
Thanks!
Upsizing the Bean Animal Pipes from the bulkhead size
Does anyone know if it's worth upsizing the drain pipes after a 1" bulkhead to 1 1/4 and likewise in the overflow box on all 3 lines? I know the Durso utilizes the upsizing for the open channel pipe. Obviously it would be easier to not upsize because of all of the reducer bushings/adapters required to change the size. Also is a gate valve really useful on the siphon line or is a ball valve adequate?
Thanks!
PC_LOAD_LTR
New member
There really isn't a need to increase the pipe size beyond that of the bulkhead. Much easier to stay consistent. I am actually replacing a durso with a bean and have a 1-1/4 bulkhead that i am reducing to 1"
Ball valves should only be used for on/off. It would be very difficult to balance the flow without a gate valves adjustability
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ball valves should only be used for on/off. It would be very difficult to balance the flow without a gate valves adjustability
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Upsizing the pipe is a good idea at times but it definitely isn’t a rule eighther. I definitely wouldn’t downsize the pipe. Need to know more about your system to say if it would be worth it or not. The biggest thing u gain by upsizing the pipe is the open channel can handle more flow & remain silent. It would also be able to handle more flunctuation in the system & remain silent without having to tune the valve.
So it isn’t as much about overall flow in most cases. A 1” syphon can handle the majority of people’s systems. The larger the open channel the more water it can take & remain silent. For example, say u run a reactor or manifold off your return pump. If u have a 1” plumbing & u turn the reactor off, u will more then likely have to adjust the valve for it to remain silent. If u have 1.5” plumbing u could turn off the reactor or whatever it’s feeding & the system remain quiet because the 1.5” open channel can handle the flunctuation.
A gate valve makes it easier to fine tune the system but I wouldn’t say they are a must. I have had no issues using ball valves in the past & I still use a ball valve on one of my setups. I like to have as long of a overflow box as possible, so a ball valve works fine. The newer ghost type overflows that have become popular can have more issues using a ball valve because the exterior boxes are small. It’s really just the 12” & maybe 16” boxes because they hold so little water. Once u get to the larger versions it shouldn’t be a issue. Not all ball valves are created equal. The really cheap ones would have more issues then a higher quality double Union ball valve for instance.
So it isn’t as much about overall flow in most cases. A 1” syphon can handle the majority of people’s systems. The larger the open channel the more water it can take & remain silent. For example, say u run a reactor or manifold off your return pump. If u have a 1” plumbing & u turn the reactor off, u will more then likely have to adjust the valve for it to remain silent. If u have 1.5” plumbing u could turn off the reactor or whatever it’s feeding & the system remain quiet because the 1.5” open channel can handle the flunctuation.
A gate valve makes it easier to fine tune the system but I wouldn’t say they are a must. I have had no issues using ball valves in the past & I still use a ball valve on one of my setups. I like to have as long of a overflow box as possible, so a ball valve works fine. The newer ghost type overflows that have become popular can have more issues using a ball valve because the exterior boxes are small. It’s really just the 12” & maybe 16” boxes because they hold so little water. Once u get to the larger versions it shouldn’t be a issue. Not all ball valves are created equal. The really cheap ones would have more issues then a higher quality double Union ball valve for instance.
Last edited:
BeanAnimal
Premium Member
I think gate valves are a waste of money... I have never had an issue dialing the system in with a ball valve. That said, in 10 years I can count on one hand the number of times I have had to adjust the system.
Bean
Bean
DougSupreme
New member
So, if I was to have a 48" external overflow, would teeth cause too much of an issue? Probably only running 1500gph over the edge.
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
a 48" notched weir with 1/4" wide notches that are 1/2" apart (1/4" teeth) would have about 93 notches, at a depth of 1" per notch that should flow over 3500 GPH so I would sa you're fine, from a flow perspective. Make the notches 1.25" deep and you're over 5000 GPH, if you then factor in the teeth clogging over time, even 50% clogging and you're well over 1500 GPH.
For comparison, the same weir at 48" with no notches only needs 0.25" of water over the top of it to achieve 1500 GPH.
For comparison, the same weir at 48" with no notches only needs 0.25" of water over the top of it to achieve 1500 GPH.
DougSupreme
New member
OK, so here's the plan (tentatively)
I'm going to build a 48x36x24 tank with an external coast to coast overflow. I'm thinking it might be more structurally sound to extend the side panels (36" panels) an extra 5-6" and make the back panel shorter than the front. Then I would attach the back and bottom of the over flow to the side pieces creating a true coast to coast overflow.
I plan on using your 3 pipe silent standpipe setup. I will drill an additional hole in the overflow bottom to run my return line, and may potentially include 4 holes in the back panel for a closed loop.
My main question is, how much shorter should I make the back panel if I want it to be able to handle 1500-2000 gph silently?
Also, is there a benefit of extending the side panels to help create the overflow box? My thought process is that the overflow box would be more than just siliconed to the back, therefore it would be less likely to leak/fall off
I'm going to build a 48x36x24 tank with an external coast to coast overflow. I'm thinking it might be more structurally sound to extend the side panels (36" panels) an extra 5-6" and make the back panel shorter than the front. Then I would attach the back and bottom of the over flow to the side pieces creating a true coast to coast overflow.
I plan on using your 3 pipe silent standpipe setup. I will drill an additional hole in the overflow bottom to run my return line, and may potentially include 4 holes in the back panel for a closed loop.
My main question is, how much shorter should I make the back panel if I want it to be able to handle 1500-2000 gph silently?
Also, is there a benefit of extending the side panels to help create the overflow box? My thought process is that the overflow box would be more than just siliconed to the back, therefore it would be less likely to leak/fall off
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
Depends on many factors I suppose. There's many ways to do it. But pics and/or a sketch help. I can't envision what you're describing, either that, or brain is in the wrong gear
DougSupreme
New member
delete
DougSupreme
New member
Quick and dirty. This is a side view of the tank. Will the larger side panels make the external overflow stronger? (Less likely to come loose and leak)
Just a thought I had, wondering if it will work
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Just a thought I had, wondering if it will work
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
I would just make the overflow box separate from the tank & attach it to the back of the tank. On a box that size I would support it with some triangle pieces under the overflow box.
As far as the notch in the back glass, it depends where u want the water level. I would be comfortable with it being 1.5”. Any more then that & the water level would look low inside of the tank. Any less then that & u start cutting it pretty close once u get wavemakers going on inside of the tank.
How are u wanting to attach the teeth. On a box that size teeth won’t cause issues as far as flow. What it does is cut the surface skimming pretty much in half. I think teeth would be more hassle then it’s worth, which to me they aren’t worth much anyways because I prefer a smooth weir
As far as the notch in the back glass, it depends where u want the water level. I would be comfortable with it being 1.5”. Any more then that & the water level would look low inside of the tank. Any less then that & u start cutting it pretty close once u get wavemakers going on inside of the tank.
How are u wanting to attach the teeth. On a box that size teeth won’t cause issues as far as flow. What it does is cut the surface skimming pretty much in half. I think teeth would be more hassle then it’s worth, which to me they aren’t worth much anyways because I prefer a smooth weir
Last edited:
Floyd R Turbo
Either busy or sleeping
What confused me was the description of "extending the sides". I now caught that you are building the tank (or having it custom built). Out of glass or acrylic?
DougSupreme
New member
Building it myself out of glass. Did you think 3/16" is sufficient?
Jk. Building it out of 3/8" possibly 1/4" for the overflow
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Similar threads
