davocean
Active member
OK, doesn't take me much to throw pics around, and I see your point, but I'll do my own thread (was going to say out of respect for op, but too late, this one went all over the place!lol)
Want a centerpiece anemone
- Thread starter SDguy
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OK, doesn't take me much to throw pics around, and I see your point, but I'll do my own thread (was going to say out of respect for op, but too late, this one went all over the place!lol)
Another question. When should I try feeding, and what quantity at once? The mag currently has been in the same spot since last weekend, and has never deflated at all. I know from reading on here that smaller pieces of food are better (easier to digest). I have some Hikari Jumbo Mysis that my old RBTA used to love... maybe a few of those?
davocean
Active member
I normally don't try to feed a new nem for at least a week to let it settle, and then small food like mysis squirted towards it, once or twice a week.
Later every week or two I feed a small piece of scallop or raw shrimp, quarter to half inch square size.
They will always pick up a little fish food at feeding time, and really light is their main source of energy.
Later every week or two I feed a small piece of scallop or raw shrimp, quarter to half inch square size.
They will always pick up a little fish food at feeding time, and really light is their main source of energy.
You know, I thought the same thing until reading this thread... so thought I'd ask about feeding.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2382311
davocean
Active member
Yeah, my point is often what we see as signs of success in other animals, spawning/breeding = good, while nems splitting means stress most often, not always good.
Same goes for size IMO, a nem in need of light will stretch out, and sometimes leave their normal area reaching for that light, or spread disc for max surface area to retrieve light.
A happy nem from my exp is a little more dense, tighter, w/ good color.
Judging by size is not neccessarily a good way to judge.
Over feeding can stress a nem, even stress them into a split.
A new nem needs to settle, pretty much all here agree to leave it be for a week or two weeks even until it settles in, and even then small amounts once a week, or every other week seem best.
A recovering nem that has not built up zooxanthellae can not process light into energy, so that would need small feedings such as mysis to help it recover and build that zoo so it can process light.
Once it does you could not spot feed at all.
Same goes for size IMO, a nem in need of light will stretch out, and sometimes leave their normal area reaching for that light, or spread disc for max surface area to retrieve light.
A happy nem from my exp is a little more dense, tighter, w/ good color.
Judging by size is not neccessarily a good way to judge.
Over feeding can stress a nem, even stress them into a split.
A new nem needs to settle, pretty much all here agree to leave it be for a week or two weeks even until it settles in, and even then small amounts once a week, or every other week seem best.
A recovering nem that has not built up zooxanthellae can not process light into energy, so that would need small feedings such as mysis to help it recover and build that zoo so it can process light.
Once it does you could not spot feed at all.
davocean
Active member
Your lighting is probably consistent and good.
In that thread or someone that hasn't been on here I see often people have made an upgrade for tank or their nems.
So like myself, back when I first got my LTA and crispa that was posted on here at joining, I had PC's, and both were pretty darn big, but not much color other than beige.
When I upped to quality lighting, suddenly those nems seemed to relax, lower in the column, had a tighter look, and much better color.
That was when they looked their healthiest, and they actually seemed smaller as they were not so stretched out.
I think they were starved for light stretching out when my light was weaker.
davocean
Active member
So here's a couple pics that may better explain what I mean.
This is my LTA under weak PC's, up high on rocks(not normal for LTA) and huge expanded disc, not such great color, yeah, looks big.
Same LTA, much better light, down at sand where it belongs, disc is not so big but look at much healthier tentacles, relaxed, but solid, better color, at least 2-3 inches smaller in diameter.
This is my LTA under weak PC's, up high on rocks(not normal for LTA) and huge expanded disc, not such great color, yeah, looks big.
Same LTA, much better light, down at sand where it belongs, disc is not so big but look at much healthier tentacles, relaxed, but solid, better color, at least 2-3 inches smaller in diameter.
davocean
Active member
So that's why I say light is their main source, many other exp peeps say the same, and when someone freaks that their nem has shrunk like on that post, I always ask what changes were made, especially in lighting.
Often smaller does not mean poor health.
I think spot feeding is especially important in nursing a bleached nem back to health as it does not process the light when it is weak in zoo.
Often smaller does not mean poor health.
I think spot feeding is especially important in nursing a bleached nem back to health as it does not process the light when it is weak in zoo.
OrionN
Moved on
IMO, davocean is correct. However, if I feed a healthy anemone well, he will grow very fast until max size then he/she will spawn. That is what happen with my Haddoni and Malu. I have not have Gigantea long enough yet (and they were in holding tanks which were too small)
Right now I have 6 Gigantea in my DT. I can do plenty of water changes. I will start to power feed them and see what happen.
Of my Gigantea, one is at adult size, I think, while the other 5 still have room to grow. Will see what happen.
Right now I have 6 Gigantea in my DT. I can do plenty of water changes. I will start to power feed them and see what happen.
Of my Gigantea, one is at adult size, I think, while the other 5 still have room to grow. Will see what happen.
davocean
Active member
I think it's kind of tough what we are doing here and grouping all in one, as they reproduce differently among other things.
Of course we know BTA's split when stressed from over feeding and most nems do not split.
I have to wonder if your feeding regimen enduces spawning.
Of course you have been around a while w/ nems, so you probably have a pretty good feel for what is a good amount of feeding and results.
Your exp lies w/ nems I have not touched on yet, except the malu.
What are you feeding normally?
Of course we know BTA's split when stressed from over feeding and most nems do not split.
I have to wonder if your feeding regimen enduces spawning.
Of course you have been around a while w/ nems, so you probably have a pretty good feel for what is a good amount of feeding and results.
Your exp lies w/ nems I have not touched on yet, except the malu.
What are you feeding normally?
TravelinLight
New member
I love how your Anemones stayed out in the open. All of mine decide to plant their foot and face the back wall
OrionN
Moved on
The anemone in my office (Malu) I feed with salmon, scallop and shrimp. Brought cubes of these from home and feed them every week or so. I have not done feed these anemones for about 1 years. I cannot change water easy in the office so I keep stocking light and not feed except the fish. I have too many things going on right now so I don't have breeding Malu in my mind.
For my anemones at home, I started to feed them in the holding tank and they got big and really crowned a lot so I stop. Now that I have plenty of room, I will try to start to feed again. It would be fund and informative if I can get my Gigantea to spawn.
Sexually breeding other host anemone is hard/impossible in aquarium since they are broadcast spawner. In theory, we should be able to breed internal brooder like Malu and Gigantea in aquarium.
For my anemones at home, I started to feed them in the holding tank and they got big and really crowned a lot so I stop. Now that I have plenty of room, I will try to start to feed again. It would be fund and informative if I can get my Gigantea to spawn.
Sexually breeding other host anemone is hard/impossible in aquarium since they are broadcast spawner. In theory, we should be able to breed internal brooder like Malu and Gigantea in aquarium.
This was the impression I had... wanted to confirm.
I'll have to get a short video of mine... that is what mine looks like, not at all "floppy" like some mags I've seen pics/videos of.
