Worm's S. Gig
- Thread starter worm5406
- Start date
OrionN
Moved on
I am not sure what happen to my post. I think I may have posted on the other thread.
I think you should treat it a little longer, until 3 days of no deflation. I do think you got too much light on your sick Gig and decrease light as you did helps.
Since your aquarium does not have any anemone in it. Put him there directly should be OK, or you can keep him for a day or two in the HT with no Cipro, all up to you.
Best of luck with him. I think he will do well.
I think you should treat it a little longer, until 3 days of no deflation. I do think you got too much light on your sick Gig and decrease light as you did helps.
Since your aquarium does not have any anemone in it. Put him there directly should be OK, or you can keep him for a day or two in the HT with no Cipro, all up to you.
Best of luck with him. I think he will do well.
Yeah 3 days after last deflation is the plan.
I am glad I reduced the light also. It does seem to help him.
The 120 is plumbed into the same system that the 180 is. This means while it is not directly in the same 120, it is in the same water column.
Once three days of no deflation are done I will do two days of no cipro in the HT.
Thanks!
They get along nicely. The Alpha is Cinnamon female. The Omega OC keeps her distance and they do swim together at times. The Cinnamon male is prob 1/4 the size of the female and he is very subservient.
Thanks Terri_ann !! Glad to see you.
Yeah that is what I am thinking too. It is doing better each day espc after the light reduction.
Thanks. I got the leather from a friend that was getting out of reefing. It just came out of 5 week QT
Well the bigger issue is I am using a 10g tank with a radion that is just above the tank. The light is no where near any sort of "percentage' of what would be in the DT.
I need a par meter to see what it is in both situations and adjust according ly.
It is possible that the light put into the 10g @7% is perfect compared to what is in the DT @50%
I need a par meter to see what it is in both situations and adjust according ly.
It is possible that the light put into the 10g @7% is perfect compared to what is in the DT @50%
OK... so I got home and it was looking pretty swell. Had to take a small video.
<iframe width="960" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/jn6WiU7AGzM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
It might be uploading so if it errors out give it another try in a few minutes.
Any one want some spaghetti?
<iframe width="960" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/jn6WiU7AGzM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
It might be uploading so if it errors out give it another try in a few minutes.
Any one want some spaghetti?
@Youngone -- Yes things are doign grat. I just looked at the video I am uploading from today and I had ZERO deflation. I am real happy now!!
@RJT -- Hummm I do not see any cloudyness. I will check, well I clean it out quite a bit lately, but I will still check. Thanks, maybe I am over looking it.
Here is a video from 10pm
<iframe width="960" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/CuKaghL4DBQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
@RJT -- Hummm I do not see any cloudyness. I will check, well I clean it out quite a bit lately, but I will still check. Thanks, maybe I am over looking it.
Here is a video from 10pm
<iframe width="960" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/CuKaghL4DBQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
OK so to catch up on documentation some:
Over the past few days there has not been any change in the regiment, of treatment: (I will start at lights out just as a zero point.)
At lights out 100% water change to get rid of all the previous sloth and xooanthae.
Water has been 1.026 at 82 degrees, fresh saltwater that has been mixing and aerating to ensure O2 in water since this is such a small tank.
Add 1x 250mg tablet of cipro, via squishing it between two fingers to let it dissolve.
Lights come on at 1300 and go off at 1900, This was later but changed when I could see when it was retracting from enough light for the day.
Remove suck off any particles floating.
Observations:
Over the past few days I have seen, via the time-lapse playback, lots of xooanthae and also some sloth/peeling of the skin come off. You can see the anemone work segments in increasing the pressure to work out different areas and expel the xooanthae. One video showed a large section get expelled.
The waves, of increase in pressure, show a lot of work being done by the anemone to flush out different sections and there have been times where it has increase all the segments to engorge it's self, most likely flushing out other particles. You can see a 'knot', short of any other word, in the segments as it works extra pressure in certain areas and moves it to other sections to work on them. I say extra pressure because you can see a pushing/torque on the flesh.
Just these past 36-48 hours was the first time it has not deflated totally. On inspection of the mouth I have seen it go from toned but wide, all the way to tight and puckered. Currently it is slightly opened and toned.
Coloring:
Coloring has changed/expelled over the time frame I have had it. Now it is a tan overall instead of a slight multi color view. Granted this may be from the light as I have not always had the same light or camera at the same time looking at it.
Outlook and plan:
With today being it's first day of zero deflation I will now count down to another two days, where, as long as there is no deflation, under existing treatment program. I will stop the cipro.
Tomorrow I will check to see if the tentacles are sticky, as they are currently very active under low/no flow.
Over the past few days there has not been any change in the regiment, of treatment: (I will start at lights out just as a zero point.)
At lights out 100% water change to get rid of all the previous sloth and xooanthae.
Water has been 1.026 at 82 degrees, fresh saltwater that has been mixing and aerating to ensure O2 in water since this is such a small tank.
Add 1x 250mg tablet of cipro, via squishing it between two fingers to let it dissolve.
Lights come on at 1300 and go off at 1900, This was later but changed when I could see when it was retracting from enough light for the day.
Remove suck off any particles floating.
Observations:
Over the past few days I have seen, via the time-lapse playback, lots of xooanthae and also some sloth/peeling of the skin come off. You can see the anemone work segments in increasing the pressure to work out different areas and expel the xooanthae. One video showed a large section get expelled.
The waves, of increase in pressure, show a lot of work being done by the anemone to flush out different sections and there have been times where it has increase all the segments to engorge it's self, most likely flushing out other particles. You can see a 'knot', short of any other word, in the segments as it works extra pressure in certain areas and moves it to other sections to work on them. I say extra pressure because you can see a pushing/torque on the flesh.
Just these past 36-48 hours was the first time it has not deflated totally. On inspection of the mouth I have seen it go from toned but wide, all the way to tight and puckered. Currently it is slightly opened and toned.
Coloring:
Coloring has changed/expelled over the time frame I have had it. Now it is a tan overall instead of a slight multi color view. Granted this may be from the light as I have not always had the same light or camera at the same time looking at it.
Outlook and plan:
With today being it's first day of zero deflation I will now count down to another two days, where, as long as there is no deflation, under existing treatment program. I will stop the cipro.
Tomorrow I will check to see if the tentacles are sticky, as they are currently very active under low/no flow.
maxxII
Super Housemonkey!
My suggestions, (worth exactly what you paid for them, although I'm not experienced with S gigantea, I've nursed one of my H.magnifica's back to health using this methodology...see This thread "Heteractis magnifica - tell me some success stories" for more on that....)
Start feeding slowly, without clowns in the tank, small amounts every other day.
When you feel like moving the anemone to the display, measure the distance of the anemone from the light, (total distance the anemone is from the light, and the distance the anemone is under the surface of the water) and replicate that in the display tank.
Then slowly, (ie once per month) increase the intensity of the Radion 5%. Once you've reached 80%, you're at about 250 Watt HQI MH 10K bulb levels for par. I base this on my own experience of running 10k XM SE bulbs with my H.magnifica's and then switching over to Phoenix 14K SE bulbs with no change in behavior, (ie no panning for more light no movement to seek higher intensity lighting), and then switching to Radion Gen 1's at 12K setting at 80% intensity level again with no change in behavior, (ie no panning for more light no movement to seek higher intensity lighting).
Obviously this is anecdotal with a sample size of one...but there it is. If your anemone begins to show signs of unhappiness, go back to what you were doing before.
Slow and steady wins this race.
IMO/IME clowns with a weakened anemone, (from shipping stress, tank stress whatever) are a bad idea. I've seen anemones that should have survived killed by clowns that stole food from it. The anemone's attempt to capture and ingest food that is later stolen by clowns is a net loss of energy and metabolic resources that a weak anemone cannot sustain.
If the anemone is not at 100%, IMO/IME you should either keep clowns out of it, or watch them carefully and be prepared to intervene and chase the clowns out of the anemone, (I've used an algae scraper in the past although anything similar will work) until it fully ingests the food item. Once the food item, (small at first) is fully ingested, the clowns can be allowed to return to the anemone.
This can take as long as 60 minutes in a seriously weakened anemone in my experience. You may be "guarding" this anemone for as long as several months, until it is healthy enough to resist the clowns from stealing food from it.
IME, once the clowns cannot steal food from the anemone, you've won, and the anemone should survive barring any further complications.
Good luck, and once again, I'm jealous.
You have a beautiful anemone that looks like its on the right track to becoming a show piece of your tank.
Start feeding slowly, without clowns in the tank, small amounts every other day.
When you feel like moving the anemone to the display, measure the distance of the anemone from the light, (total distance the anemone is from the light, and the distance the anemone is under the surface of the water) and replicate that in the display tank.
Then slowly, (ie once per month) increase the intensity of the Radion 5%. Once you've reached 80%, you're at about 250 Watt HQI MH 10K bulb levels for par. I base this on my own experience of running 10k XM SE bulbs with my H.magnifica's and then switching over to Phoenix 14K SE bulbs with no change in behavior, (ie no panning for more light no movement to seek higher intensity lighting), and then switching to Radion Gen 1's at 12K setting at 80% intensity level again with no change in behavior, (ie no panning for more light no movement to seek higher intensity lighting).
Obviously this is anecdotal with a sample size of one...but there it is. If your anemone begins to show signs of unhappiness, go back to what you were doing before.
Slow and steady wins this race.
IMO/IME clowns with a weakened anemone, (from shipping stress, tank stress whatever) are a bad idea. I've seen anemones that should have survived killed by clowns that stole food from it. The anemone's attempt to capture and ingest food that is later stolen by clowns is a net loss of energy and metabolic resources that a weak anemone cannot sustain.
If the anemone is not at 100%, IMO/IME you should either keep clowns out of it, or watch them carefully and be prepared to intervene and chase the clowns out of the anemone, (I've used an algae scraper in the past although anything similar will work) until it fully ingests the food item. Once the food item, (small at first) is fully ingested, the clowns can be allowed to return to the anemone.
This can take as long as 60 minutes in a seriously weakened anemone in my experience. You may be "guarding" this anemone for as long as several months, until it is healthy enough to resist the clowns from stealing food from it.
IME, once the clowns cannot steal food from the anemone, you've won, and the anemone should survive barring any further complications.
Good luck, and once again, I'm jealous.
You have a beautiful anemone that looks like its on the right track to becoming a show piece of your tank.
SNAKEMANVET
PREMIUM MEMBER
The gig is looking a lot better.
I too think it will be a centerpiece in the 120 and will be healthy, thanks.
I have wondered what the setting % was, from another person. I keep getting different opinions and ideas, and charts, on what people think the equivalent is.
Thanks for ideas and suggestions.
Thanks, I can't wait to see it relaxed and back to what ever its normal size was.
This upload took forever. WOW... Someoneelse at home must have been downloading a movie or something.
This video shows over a full 24 hours of no deflation.
<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/YlO5tj2MNtU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
This video shows over a full 24 hours of no deflation.
<iframe width="1280" height="720" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/YlO5tj2MNtU" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
