Don't worry, you are not rude at all.
I have battled dinoflagellates for ages, first amphidinium which easily vanishes with blackouts and some commercial products, then an unidentified species of symbiodinium which was easy to beat too. In the last years I suffered 5 ostreopsis blooms which where the worst by far.
All dinoflagellates issues have one thing in common: they show up when inorganic nutrients hit zero (specially PO4). Most of them are autotrophic and will resist in very low nutrient systems where any other microorganisms that use to keep them in check starve to death.
I have noticed that dino problems occur after using anti-phosphate resins, upgrading to a more powerful skimmer, exceeding in the usage of any carbon sources (specially bio-pellets) or performing too many water changes.
Dinoflagellates are very delicate organisms that stay on the first trophic step and are eagerly eaten by ciliates, nematodes, copepods...and even other dinoflagellates such as oxhirris marina (you can check some videos I have recorded:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKeEeFt_gBU)
I have learned that the best way to get rid of them is encouraging the occurrence of other organisms capable to keep them in check, and what works best is switching off the skimmer and feeding some frozen, not rinsed food for a few days (you can also dump some of the skimmate back in the aquarium, if you use a microscope you will find millions of heterotrophic bacteria, ciliates and nematodes). This is a simple piece of advice that has worked on many tanks pretty well.
There is also a "clean" way that consists in the opposite: sterilize the water using uv germicides, hydrogen peroxide, but won't work with some species such as ostreopsis as they protect themselves in a cocoon named pellicle and will bloom back again in a few days with no competitors at all and playing havoc in your tank.
So first thing: get a microscope and id the dinoflagellate species; if you need any help just pm me and will try to help
Good luck