A Smart? Aquarium in Taiwan...

Have you id that dino infestation? It is very important as many dino species do not vanish after a full blackout, such is the case of conspicuous ostreopsis or gambierdiscus to name a few.

What it always works well against all species of dino is switching off the skimmer and feed some frozen food for a few days. Dinoflagellates always bloom when inorganic phosphates reach zero and all algae starves to death.

I'm sorry... I really do not understand what you are trying to say here.. Could you please elaborate on your theory and method of reducing dinos? I'm not trying to be rude, it's just that your statement completely confuses me.
 
Have you id that dino infestation? It is very important as many dino species do not vanish after a full blackout, such is the case of conspicuous ostreopsis or gambierdiscus to name a few.

What it always works well against all species of dino is switching off the skimmer and feed some frozen food for a few days. Dinoflagellates always bloom when inorganic phosphates reach zero and all algae starves to death.

I actually don't know what kind of dino, but gave a 4-day blackout a try. It work perfectly though I was so scare about all coral died, but they did pretty well.
Do you have a link or more information about blooming. I could ask my friend (hehe) to try... It is nerve hard to find a friend having this issue. Haha


I'm sorry... I really do not understand what you are trying to say here.. Could you please elaborate on your theory and method of reducing dinos? I'm not trying to be rude, it's just that your statement completely confuses me.

Interested to know as well. I think I heard it somewhere, but did not study too deep here. Always welcome a good suggestion!
 
After success remove dino, yes, blackout did not affect diatom at all;-(, I was hesitated if I starve diatom by not feeding fish/coral, will also kill already paled and no-PE coral colonies, so instead, I choose bio control and frequent water change (35% every other days for 10 days). 15 sand sifting Sea Stars, 6 coin-size Tripneustes Gratilla urchins, and 5 algae eating sea slugs, and two huge (since KZ sand) orange spotted gobies were added into tank.

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This is a full tank shot on 6/22 after blackout and some brown algae (Diotom) treatment. Most coral colonies pale and brownish, but continue growing.

I see good color recovery these days, will take photo later. But now I am busy on re-arrange coral placement to clean a space for my "finding dory scene" (I asked neighbor kids to see dory and nemo my house, instead of buy and kill them)... Meaning, I need a big sea ​​anemone for my clownfish.
 
Forget to mention, though a upset surprise when back home after 3 weeks trip, but there are still things make my happy....

Replace old BubbleKing double cone 250 by Deluxe 300 with RD3 pump

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New pump is so quiet and well performed after 5 minutes
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I'm sorry... I really do not understand what you are trying to say here.. Could you please elaborate on your theory and method of reducing dinos? I'm not trying to be rude, it's just that your statement completely confuses me.

Don't worry, you are not rude at all.
I have battled dinoflagellates for ages, first amphidinium which easily vanishes with blackouts and some commercial products, then an unidentified species of symbiodinium which was easy to beat too. In the last years I suffered 5 ostreopsis blooms which where the worst by far.

All dinoflagellates issues have one thing in common: they show up when inorganic nutrients hit zero (specially PO4). Most of them are autotrophic and will resist in very low nutrient systems where any other microorganisms that use to keep them in check starve to death.

I have noticed that dino problems occur after using anti-phosphate resins, upgrading to a more powerful skimmer, exceeding in the usage of any carbon sources (specially bio-pellets) or performing too many water changes.

Dinoflagellates are very delicate organisms that stay on the first trophic step and are eagerly eaten by ciliates, nematodes, copepods...and even other dinoflagellates such as oxhirris marina (you can check some videos I have recorded: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKeEeFt_gBU)

I have learned that the best way to get rid of them is encouraging the occurrence of other organisms capable to keep them in check, and what works best is switching off the skimmer and feeding some frozen, not rinsed food for a few days (you can also dump some of the skimmate back in the aquarium, if you use a microscope you will find millions of heterotrophic bacteria, ciliates and nematodes). This is a simple piece of advice that has worked on many tanks pretty well.

There is also a "clean" way that consists in the opposite: sterilize the water using uv germicides, hydrogen peroxide, but won't work with some species such as ostreopsis as they protect themselves in a cocoon named pellicle and will bloom back again in a few days with no competitors at all and playing havoc in your tank.

So first thing: get a microscope and id the dinoflagellate species; if you need any help just pm me and will try to help

Good luck
 
New skimmer looks to be working very well. :)

That is one SEXY skimmer!
I wish I had that baby skimming my tank!! :)

Yes, it is a powerful and trustworthy skimmer.
I also bought its adapter interface http://royalexclusiv.net/Flow-Pumps/Saltwater-Seawater/Red-Dragon-3-pumps/Interface-Adapter-for-Red-Dragon-3-Speedy-10V-connection-for-RD3-with-60-80W::1208.html), but unfortunately it come with GHL controller version, not my Apex. May need some re-work myself.....:headwally:
 
Don't worry, you are not rude at all.
I have battled dinoflagellates for ages, first amphidinium which easily vanishes with blackouts and some commercial products, then an unidentified species of symbiodinium which was easy to beat too. In the last years I suffered 5 ostreopsis blooms which where the worst by far.

All dinoflagellates issues have one thing in common: they show up when inorganic nutrients hit zero (specially PO4). Most of them are autotrophic and will resist in very low nutrient systems where any other microorganisms that use to keep them in check starve to death.

I have noticed that dino problems occur after using anti-phosphate resins, upgrading to a more powerful skimmer, exceeding in the usage of any carbon sources (specially bio-pellets) or performing too many water changes.

Dinoflagellates are very delicate organisms that stay on the first trophic step and are eagerly eaten by ciliates, nematodes, copepods...and even other dinoflagellates such as oxhirris marina (you can check some videos I have recorded: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZKeEeFt_gBU)

I have learned that the best way to get rid of them is encouraging the occurrence of other organisms capable to keep them in check, and what works best is switching off the skimmer and feeding some frozen, not rinsed food for a few days (you can also dump some of the skimmate back in the aquarium, if you use a microscope you will find millions of heterotrophic bacteria, ciliates and nematodes). This is a simple piece of advice that has worked on many tanks pretty well.

There is also a "clean" way that consists in the opposite: sterilize the water using uv germicides, hydrogen peroxide, but won't work with some species such as ostreopsis as they protect themselves in a cocoon named pellicle and will bloom back again in a few days with no competitors at all and playing havoc in your tank.

So first thing: get a microscope and id the dinoflagellate species; if you need any help just pm me and will try to help

Good luck

It make logically sense. Thanks for sharing.

"Skimmate"!!! interested. However, you are not the first one love it here...;-)
 
Patience is the answer when facing issues on reef keeping....
Gradually recover from algae and diatom hit (see early post) after 3 weeks vocation in May. Lost my big birdnest (well, still have frag left), but all other coral recovery well and start popping KZ color.

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Note that I was hopping my anemone stay as this picture below (she stay there for only a couple of days), but now she decide finding a better place herself and shy to show up on pictures above.

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Looking great, shih!
Nice recovery.
Love the magnifica!

Thanks.
Problem is... I really really want her stay the place I prepare for her (I event remove some SPS colonies from that spot :headwally:), but she seems like stick up-side-down and then only tentacles turn up to take lights.

Welcome to chime in suggestion how to let her stay in desired spot.
 
Feed her, give her lots of light and good alternating flow and she will probably stay.
Good luck with her. I wish my reef was larger, then I would keep one again.
They are so beautiful.
 
Hi,

Your tank looks pretty good and recovered well from the dinoflagellate outbreak. I have switched to Zeovit in my reef and like results so far.............Jim
 
Sorry, not really..
Maybe soaking food for the anemone in Selcon or another vitamin supplement..
I've never tried this, myself.

Ok, will give it a try and update later. Some Taiwan reefers also suggest some kind of food they have used, I will check that as well.
 
Hi,

Your tank looks pretty good and recovered well from the dinoflagellate outbreak. I have switched to Zeovit in my reef and like results so far.............Jim

Good luck for your KZ system. Please share your observation and I believe we all can learn and benefit from it.

What do you helped you get rid of the diatom issue.

I am not sure it is the combination of below or one specific action, but what I did are..( I list by the priority as what I believe contribute most first)
1) 25% water change every other day
2) Use filter foam wrap my Tunze to quickly remove diatom after a small pump blew rock and sand bed every day.
3) Add many nature stuff to eat algae (see my post before)
4) Add Zeovit Snow three times a week
5) Stop KZ PIF, Iodine, etc...
6) Add Zeozym once a week
7) Skimmer change to a more powerful one
 
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