LeLutinBanni
New member
Why are they considered as Expert only ? Compared to sebae or malu etc etc...
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Heteractis magnifica...Expert only ?
- Thread starter LeLutinBanni
- Start date
aandfsoccr04
Active member
I don't really know that they would be considered expert. Then again I don't really know what an expert is. You never really stop learning in this hobby. I was reef keeping for a little over a year when I acquired mine. They need very strong lighting and good water flow with relatively stable water conditions. I wouldn't think a tank under 6-8 months would be good for one. They are also notoriously bad shippers which means they usually need a lot of TLC when they come in which could be why they are considered expert.
bradleym
Premium Member
This has been my experience with each of the 3 that I have acquired also.
Winwood
New member
A healthy H. magnifica is relatively easy to care for, and if obtained in this condition probably wouldn't be considered an expert only creature. Unfortunately healthy mags are very hard to come by because they are terrible shippers. I think knowing the signs of a healthy magnifica is probably where the ones expertise level really comes into play. Magnificas can look heathy one minute and terrible the next so multiple characteristics need to be present to constitute a healthy mag, such as: closed mouth, inflated body and tentacles, sticky tentacles, can it hold itself up in a current, is it bleached or not, will it feed on it's own etc.. I would also like to note that just going through the checklist is not a guarantee either. As stated before freshly shipped mags can appear bulletproof one day and go down hill really fast.
The care of these anemones is fairly straight forward once healthy and their longterm success mostly lies in light and current. However, there is one other notoriously annoying thing about mags. They tend to wander and sting things. This problem is often avoided if you provide them with their own "bommie" or "island" of rocks seperate from the rest of your reef. They tend not to climb down much and do not cross sand.
As with all anemones, pumps and powerheads should be shielded with sponges or screen to prevent the anemone getting the wood chipper treatment if it becomes detached or wanders in the wrong direction.
The care of these anemones is fairly straight forward once healthy and their longterm success mostly lies in light and current. However, there is one other notoriously annoying thing about mags. They tend to wander and sting things. This problem is often avoided if you provide them with their own "bommie" or "island" of rocks seperate from the rest of your reef. They tend not to climb down much and do not cross sand.
As with all anemones, pumps and powerheads should be shielded with sponges or screen to prevent the anemone getting the wood chipper treatment if it becomes detached or wanders in the wrong direction.
Well, I am currently in the process of finding out as I type this. My 120 tank was designed around this particular species, and as of right now I am completely heartbroken. This is my first attempt with one, and while he looked amazing at the LFS, we are at day 4 in my tank and he just doesnt like it. Gaping mouth, tentacles not sticky, wont fully inflate; I am really hopeful that there will be a happy ending, however the realist in me says all of the warning signs are there. I still believe this is the coolest animal in the ocean!
Tmoriarty
New member
I also agree that once a healthy one is aquired they are not any harder to keep then my BTA's.
Mine does not wander and has been healthy in my tank for almost 6 months now. I did get two others that were not in good condition and did not make it through despite that my first one is very healthy and sticky.
One thing I noticed is the thing is a dam pig, I believe that they require much higher levels of supplemental feeding then most anemone to keep them happy, unless very strong lighting is provided (mine is 7 inches below a 250w 20k bulb).
If you can find a healthy one they are definately one of the coolest things you can have in your reef, even the standard brownish ones are awesome.
Mine does not wander and has been healthy in my tank for almost 6 months now. I did get two others that were not in good condition and did not make it through despite that my first one is very healthy and sticky.
One thing I noticed is the thing is a dam pig, I believe that they require much higher levels of supplemental feeding then most anemone to keep them happy, unless very strong lighting is provided (mine is 7 inches below a 250w 20k bulb).
If you can find a healthy one they are definately one of the coolest things you can have in your reef, even the standard brownish ones are awesome.
Tmoriarty
New member
I have multiple tanks, so when they started looking bad I moved them to a 55g, one at a time. I wanted to see if they were only reacting badly to the close proximity to other magnificas. Unfourtanetly not the case.
I knew it was to late when I started seeing holes develop in the foot. I still gave it another day, at that point there was a large mount of holes, deflated nem, gaping mouth. I was still able to pull it out of the tank without it completly falling apart but at that point it did break off some smaller pieces I had to get with a net.
Once they start devloping holes in the feet they are deteriating fast and will not make it another 24 hours, at least in my experience with the two I lost.
Again not tank conditions because both tanks parameters are fine and the original Magnifica has been in the tank for about 6 months, 4 of which were after those two did not make it. It is inflated 100% of the time, holds itself up in the flow, and folds up on it self somewhat at night after lights out.
I knew it was to late when I started seeing holes develop in the foot. I still gave it another day, at that point there was a large mount of holes, deflated nem, gaping mouth. I was still able to pull it out of the tank without it completly falling apart but at that point it did break off some smaller pieces I had to get with a net.
Once they start devloping holes in the feet they are deteriating fast and will not make it another 24 hours, at least in my experience with the two I lost.
Again not tank conditions because both tanks parameters are fine and the original Magnifica has been in the tank for about 6 months, 4 of which were after those two did not make it. It is inflated 100% of the time, holds itself up in the flow, and folds up on it self somewhat at night after lights out.
BonsaiNut
Premium Member
Why they might be considered expert:
(1) Size. They are probably the 2nd largest clown anemone, and can easily reach 24" diameter.
(2) Light requirements. They have probably the 2nd highest light requirements for clown anemones (in general), and can be found in nature in water so shallow they can be out of water at low tide.
(3) Flow requirements. They like a lot of flow and high dissolved oxygen.
(4) Walk-about. If #2 and #3 are not met, this anemone will wander a LOT. It will typically find the glass side of your tank, and walk up it to the surface (where light and water flow are highest). This often coincides with the location of your overflow, or a powerhead, so this anemone is notorious for going for a waterfall ride (potentially blocking your overflow and causing tank flooding), or getting caught up and torn by your powerhead or wave-maker.
Otherwise... if you can meet their requirements... they are one of the hardiest of the clown anemones. They are also one of two species that reproduces asexually (with any degree of frequency) in captivity.
(1) Size. They are probably the 2nd largest clown anemone, and can easily reach 24" diameter.
(2) Light requirements. They have probably the 2nd highest light requirements for clown anemones (in general), and can be found in nature in water so shallow they can be out of water at low tide.
(3) Flow requirements. They like a lot of flow and high dissolved oxygen.
(4) Walk-about. If #2 and #3 are not met, this anemone will wander a LOT. It will typically find the glass side of your tank, and walk up it to the surface (where light and water flow are highest). This often coincides with the location of your overflow, or a powerhead, so this anemone is notorious for going for a waterfall ride (potentially blocking your overflow and causing tank flooding), or getting caught up and torn by your powerhead or wave-maker.
Otherwise... if you can meet their requirements... they are one of the hardiest of the clown anemones. They are also one of two species that reproduces asexually (with any degree of frequency) in captivity.
OrionN
Moved on
View this thread. You can try treatment with antibiotic in hospital tank.
http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2220652
LeLutinBanni
New member
Haddoni are bad shipper too if i understand.
BonsaiNut
Premium Member
...not really. Or perhaps I should say "not more than any other clown anemone".
LeLutinBanni
New member
ok why liveaquaria is considering haddoni as EXPERT ONLY too.
Thank
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todd141
Golf Nut
Alot of the time I think they put those "expert" labels on things (not just these anemones) to try and discourage "newbies" from buying them and putting them in a month old tank. That coupled with the fact that you really need to know what you're doing with some of these animals - exactly what Bonsai said above.
ALSO - Straight from Live Aquaria:
Care Level:
We have included a general guideline in our Quick Stats of the level of care that the different corals and invertebrates require. This is provided to give you a basis of the hardiness of the species, which you can then match to your level of experience.
Easy
Although not indestructible, the species in this category have proven to be not too demanding in the care that they require. Most of these corals and invertebrates do not have special feeding requirements and can tolerate less than perfect water conditions.
Moderate
The corals and invertebrates in this category demand a bit more attention than those that are considered "Easy" to care for. Some of these corals may have special feeding, lighting, or water movement requirements and may require water conditions closer to those found in nature.
Difficult
Species that fall into this category demand a higher level of both attention and water quality. Many of these corals and invertebrates have special feeding, water quality, movement and lighting requirements. They should only be added to a reef aquarium that is well established. Many reef aquariums do not become fully established for many months, and sometimes up to a year. These "Difficult" species should be among the last additions to your collection.
Expert Only
Organisms in the "Expert Only" category are very difficult to maintain in captivity in the long term. The requirements of many of these corals and invertebrates are specialized, and may need to be kept in a species-specific aquarium. These species are best kept by the most advanced hobbyists and research institutions. A well-established reef aquarium is a must for these species.
ALSO - Straight from Live Aquaria:
Care Level:
We have included a general guideline in our Quick Stats of the level of care that the different corals and invertebrates require. This is provided to give you a basis of the hardiness of the species, which you can then match to your level of experience.
Easy
Although not indestructible, the species in this category have proven to be not too demanding in the care that they require. Most of these corals and invertebrates do not have special feeding requirements and can tolerate less than perfect water conditions.
Moderate
The corals and invertebrates in this category demand a bit more attention than those that are considered "Easy" to care for. Some of these corals may have special feeding, lighting, or water movement requirements and may require water conditions closer to those found in nature.
Difficult
Species that fall into this category demand a higher level of both attention and water quality. Many of these corals and invertebrates have special feeding, water quality, movement and lighting requirements. They should only be added to a reef aquarium that is well established. Many reef aquariums do not become fully established for many months, and sometimes up to a year. These "Difficult" species should be among the last additions to your collection.
Expert Only
Organisms in the "Expert Only" category are very difficult to maintain in captivity in the long term. The requirements of many of these corals and invertebrates are specialized, and may need to be kept in a species-specific aquarium. These species are best kept by the most advanced hobbyists and research institutions. A well-established reef aquarium is a must for these species.
D-Nak
Active member
I think this is exactly right. Expertise = knowledge. "Expert only" means -- in its most basic form -- that you understand the organism and its care requirements. But it goes beyond having the knowledge, it also requires first hand experience with the organism.
Just as Winwood pointed out, it takes what we are referring to as an "expert" to determine whether or not a magnifica in a LFS is healthy enough to bring home. Since this is your first mag, you would be considered a beginner despite the knowledge you may have acquired. As I mentioned previously, it takes hands on experience to understand not only what to look for, but how to remedy the situation (though sick mags rarely pull through). This is aside from perfect water quality and providing the ideal environment (lighting, flow, etc), which many beginners have a hard time providing and maintaining. For experts, this isn't an issue.
SomeDude12
New member
I agree with soccr. They definitely don't do well with shipping. However, I would say the same for sebae's as well. I definitely wouldn't consider one to a bigger.
OrionN
Moved on
They should not deflated at all. Maybe one or twice with if that. IMO, deflating is the way the anemone wanted to get rid of the "bad stuff" inside themselves, purging these out in exchange for the good normal water. If they keep on deflating, it means that they cannot fight what ever it is in them and cannot control it. Similar to us having diarrhea throwing up when we eat something bad or having bowel infection (gastroenteritis). The body stimulate the bowels to dump out the bad stuff through throwing up and diarrhea. The body then control what little pathogen still in the bowel and we stop diarrhea. If it cannot control it, then we continue to have diarrhea and died of dehydration.
Thanks Orion, I believe I have figured out the problem with the shriveling up. I have some strong LEDs and decided to dim them even more today and he finally has started looking better within 15 min of me reducing power. Maybe he is just having trouble acclimating to the new lights?
