I've been trying to read through this whole thread and I am around page 82 right now. I have tried a few leopards from different venders. I've done things a little different from the majority here because I just have been through too much with ich and going through fallow periods and such so I have been using QT's for everything including leopards.
I set up a 20g with sand and LR and loaded it with pods. This was established for quite some time before trying any leopards. I also re-seed with pods from reefs2go on a fairly regular basis. I like those because they come in all different sizes and the wrasses go nuts for them. My first try was a bipartus from my LFS. She looked good at the store hunting around but I didn't have them feed her first. She stayed buried for days an anytime she came out she just layed on her side. I couldn't get her to even look at anything and she died in about a week.
Then I tried 4 meleagris and one more bipartus from bluezoo, 2 meleagris DOA. I had a hard time getting the others to eat even though they came out I only saw the bipartus and one of the (very small) meleagris's eat pods and evenually got those two both eating. The other meleagris died in the first week. I had the bipartus eating live black worms and both ate frozen brine but not really mysis from what I could tell. They spit the mysis.
I did 2 doses of prazi after the first week on these 2. The bipartus died out of now where about a month in. He was eating live black worms several times a day and frozen brine but never would really go for the mysis or anything else I tried. One day he was out but did not eat, next day dead.
That small meleagris ended up having an extended QT stay due to ich in my display tank and I underwent a 12 week fallow. I just got him into my display on 8/19 and he has been great in there. He has also finally begun eating other things like the pe mysis and reef frenzy food. I actually bought the reef frenzy foods specifically to try to get leopards taking frozen and it seems to have worked.
I also tried 3 more bipartus females (from Liveaquaria) that began their QT when I moved the meleagris to the display. They all seemed ok from the start exept one seemed to have balance issues big time and was just not right. The next day though they were all eating live black worms and pe mysis, even the one that was still swimming funny. I dosed prazi on the second day. Two of the 3 died within the first week. I did the second dose of prazi on day 7. Then I moved the other bipartus to the display on about day 11 I think, 2 days ago.
The meleagris and bipartus seem to like each other and are always together in the display. I have them both eating very well and I've been feeding about 6 or 7 times a day now.
I'm thinking I'm going to try 2 more meleagris from liveaquaria since they gave me credit for the 2 bipartus.
Things I've learned that I would consider important are:
1. Dose the prazi asap. I think I could have one more bipartus if I dosed it sooner on my bluezoo order.
2. Buy from Liveaquaria/divers den only. They seem to have the better specimens and still back up their guarantee on leopards. Also they seemed easier to get eating frozen.
3. You guys are impossible to beat when one actually does hit divers den...
4. *** Don't trust what the venders says they ship at for specific gravity. They told me they ship at 1.025 and I checked with a refractometer and it was 1.018.
5. Live black worms and live brine are great to have on hand when you receive your leopards.
I also began (on my last order) adjusting the QT to the SG of the fish when they arrive instead of such a dramatized acclimation. I think that helped ALOT. They seemed much less stressed going in and began eating much faster than the others.
I want to try a potters or a kuteri (sp? idk) down the road too but I want to make sure I'll have some success with the ones I have first. I also might try to set up a slightly larger established QT down the road too just for dosing the prazi. I don't do it in my display because I don't want to kill off anything in there really. I also don't want to risk any spike from too many worms dying all at once which would most likely be the case for me in their.
In the works...I hear that glass takes away some of the light penetration. Any one know about this??
LFS is going to their supplier this week and looking for a blue star pair for me ����
I can tell you I have LED's and an apogee par meter. I noticed very very little difference with or without my glass tops. I have a canopy on my tank and I still keep the glass tops on the rear portion. No ones jumping out of my tank.
I think the par difference was less than 10, and my tops were dirty/salt creep and such. So that is nothing as far as I'm concerned.