Leopard Wrasse Primer

Leopard Wrasse Primer

  • Macropharyngodon bipartitus

    Votes: 67 28.4%
  • Macropharyngodon choati

    Votes: 12 5.1%
  • Macropharyngodon geoffroy

    Votes: 24 10.2%
  • Macropharyngodon meleagris

    Votes: 78 33.1%
  • Macropharyngodon negrosensis

    Votes: 29 12.3%
  • Other

    Votes: 26 11.0%

  • Total voters
    236
gregrocks79..thanks he eats everything now even pellets and flakes etc...
evolved..that pic was taken a few months ago..he is losing alot of the red and getting darker...

Nice he's maturing!! Can't wait to see mine grow up too! Such gorgeous fish!!
 
so here is my male MM that is a lady killer! He killed a couple of MM females a few years back........This is an old pick, 2 years....

He is fat and happy....got to go....

I just spent 12 hours trying to get him out...mf....lol....


:uzi:

he will be gone in AM....this is my new baby he tried to kill....


IMG_3127 by mysterybox10, on Flickr
 
Last edited:
9574779222_0d2bca5e44_b.jpg




Macropharyngodon kuiteri
 
I got a Potter's leopard today @ the LFS. This will be my second leopard wrasse after my oranate. It was eating pellets and mysis in the shop so I decided to take a chance.

IMG_2161.jpg
 
My lady decided to surf. I'm out of my wrasses now. Should I try another? They are gorgeous. But are they too much trouble? Had my lady blue star for a year. No issues! I'm torn...
 
In the works...I hear that glass takes away some of the light penetration. Any one know about this??

LFS is going to their supplier this week and looking for a blue star pair for me 😁👍
 
In the works...I hear that glass takes away some of the light penetration. Any one know about this??

LFS is going to their supplier this week and looking for a blue star pair for me 😁👍

You can get/make a top with clear plastic netting (BRS sells it). Someone did a par test of different types of covers and if I remember correctly it was the best with little drop off from no top.
 
Basically you make a window-style 'bug screen' for your tank using netting. BRS sells the frames also, or you can get kits from Home Depot.
 
Basically you make a window-style 'bug screen' for your tank using netting. BRS sells the frames also, or you can get kits from Home Depot.


ummm, yes.....that's a must! I've have mine for 6-7 years (remake a new one every so often).
 
I've been trying to read through this whole thread and I am around page 82 right now. I have tried a few leopards from different venders. I've done things a little different from the majority here because I just have been through too much with ich and going through fallow periods and such so I have been using QT's for everything including leopards.

I set up a 20g with sand and LR and loaded it with pods. This was established for quite some time before trying any leopards. I also re-seed with pods from reefs2go on a fairly regular basis. I like those because they come in all different sizes and the wrasses go nuts for them. My first try was a bipartus from my LFS. She looked good at the store hunting around but I didn't have them feed her first. She stayed buried for days an anytime she came out she just layed on her side. I couldn't get her to even look at anything and she died in about a week.

Then I tried 4 meleagris and one more bipartus from bluezoo, 2 meleagris DOA. I had a hard time getting the others to eat even though they came out I only saw the bipartus and one of the (very small) meleagris's eat pods and evenually got those two both eating. The other meleagris died in the first week. I had the bipartus eating live black worms and both ate frozen brine but not really mysis from what I could tell. They spit the mysis.

I did 2 doses of prazi after the first week on these 2. The bipartus died out of now where about a month in. He was eating live black worms several times a day and frozen brine but never would really go for the mysis or anything else I tried. One day he was out but did not eat, next day dead.

That small meleagris ended up having an extended QT stay due to ich in my display tank and I underwent a 12 week fallow. I just got him into my display on 8/19 and he has been great in there. He has also finally begun eating other things like the pe mysis and reef frenzy food. I actually bought the reef frenzy foods specifically to try to get leopards taking frozen and it seems to have worked.

I also tried 3 more bipartus females (from Liveaquaria) that began their QT when I moved the meleagris to the display. They all seemed ok from the start exept one seemed to have balance issues big time and was just not right. The next day though they were all eating live black worms and pe mysis, even the one that was still swimming funny. I dosed prazi on the second day. Two of the 3 died within the first week. I did the second dose of prazi on day 7. Then I moved the other bipartus to the display on about day 11 I think, 2 days ago.

The meleagris and bipartus seem to like each other and are always together in the display. I have them both eating very well and I've been feeding about 6 or 7 times a day now.

I'm thinking I'm going to try 2 more meleagris from liveaquaria since they gave me credit for the 2 bipartus.

Things I've learned that I would consider important are:

1. Dose the prazi asap. I think I could have one more bipartus if I dosed it sooner on my bluezoo order.
2. Buy from Liveaquaria/divers den only. They seem to have the better specimens and still back up their guarantee on leopards. Also they seemed easier to get eating frozen.
3. You guys are impossible to beat when one actually does hit divers den...
4. *** Don't trust what the venders says they ship at for specific gravity. They told me they ship at 1.025 and I checked with a refractometer and it was 1.018.
5. Live black worms and live brine are great to have on hand when you receive your leopards.

I also began (on my last order) adjusting the QT to the SG of the fish when they arrive instead of such a dramatized acclimation. I think that helped ALOT. They seemed much less stressed going in and began eating much faster than the others.

I want to try a potters or a kuteri (sp? idk) down the road too but I want to make sure I'll have some success with the ones I have first. I also might try to set up a slightly larger established QT down the road too just for dosing the prazi. I don't do it in my display because I don't want to kill off anything in there really. I also don't want to risk any spike from too many worms dying all at once which would most likely be the case for me in their.

In the works...I hear that glass takes away some of the light penetration. Any one know about this??

LFS is going to their supplier this week and looking for a blue star pair for me ����

I can tell you I have LED's and an apogee par meter. I noticed very very little difference with or without my glass tops. I have a canopy on my tank and I still keep the glass tops on the rear portion. No ones jumping out of my tank.

I think the par difference was less than 10, and my tops were dirty/salt creep and such. So that is nothing as far as I'm concerned.
 
I would really be interested to know what percentage of Leopard wrasse buyers from Live Aquaria call back within the 15 day warranty period due to dead fish.I would guess over 50%.I'm impressed they warranty them at all,especially the Choates wrasse.

Also,it is extremely rare for a leopard wrasse to show up on Divers Den.And when they do,they sell in seconds.Are they just too labor intensive for them?Poor survival rates?
 
The guy that runs/owns? Liveaquaria/divers den has posted in this thread quite a few times. He seems to have his methods down from his posts and I wonder that too. I would think that they would have a much higher percentage of sales that make it past their 2 week guarantee coming from divers den.

I would bet that they just dont get as many sent to divers den and it seems like they try to get more males on divers den.

I havent been looking long but I have only seen them through the sneak peak emails other than that I never see one on DD and like you said, you have to be refreshing your browser waiting for it to get it.
 
I've been trying to read through this whole thread and I am around page 82 right now. I have tried a few leopards from different venders. I've done things a little different from the majority here because I just have been through too much with ich and going through fallow periods and such so I have been using QT's for everything including leopards.

I set up a 20g with sand and LR and loaded it with pods. This was established for quite some time before trying any leopards. I also re-seed with pods from reefs2go on a fairly regular basis. I like those because they come in all different sizes and the wrasses go nuts for them. My first try was a bipartus from my LFS. She looked good at the store hunting around but I didn't have them feed her first. She stayed buried for days an anytime she came out she just layed on her side. I couldn't get her to even look at anything and she died in about a week.

Then I tried 4 meleagris and one more bipartus from bluezoo, 2 meleagris DOA. I had a hard time getting the others to eat even though they came out I only saw the bipartus and one of the (very small) meleagris's eat pods and evenually got those two both eating. The other meleagris died in the first week. I had the bipartus eating live black worms and both ate frozen brine but not really mysis from what I could tell. They spit the mysis.

I did 2 doses of prazi after the first week on these 2. The bipartus died out of now where about a month in. He was eating live black worms several times a day and frozen brine but never would really go for the mysis or anything else I tried. One day he was out but did not eat, next day dead.

That small meleagris ended up having an extended QT stay due to ich in my display tank and I underwent a 12 week fallow. I just got him into my display on 8/19 and he has been great in there. He has also finally begun eating other things like the pe mysis and reef frenzy food. I actually bought the reef frenzy foods specifically to try to get leopards taking frozen and it seems to have worked.

I also tried 3 more bipartus females (from Liveaquaria) that began their QT when I moved the meleagris to the display. They all seemed ok from the start exept one seemed to have balance issues big time and was just not right. The next day though they were all eating live black worms and pe mysis, even the one that was still swimming funny. I dosed prazi on the second day. Two of the 3 died within the first week. I did the second dose of prazi on day 7. Then I moved the other bipartus to the display on about day 11 I think, 2 days ago.

The meleagris and bipartus seem to like each other and are always together in the display. I have them both eating very well and I've been feeding about 6 or 7 times a day now.

I'm thinking I'm going to try 2 more meleagris from liveaquaria since they gave me credit for the 2 bipartus.

Things I've learned that I would consider important are:

1. Dose the prazi asap. I think I could have one more bipartus if I dosed it sooner on my bluezoo order.
2. Buy from Liveaquaria/divers den only. They seem to have the better specimens and still back up their guarantee on leopards. Also they seemed easier to get eating frozen.
3. You guys are impossible to beat when one actually does hit divers den...
4. *** Don't trust what the venders says they ship at for specific gravity. They told me they ship at 1.025 and I checked with a refractometer and it was 1.018.
5. Live black worms and live brine are great to have on hand when you receive your leopards.

I also began (on my last order) adjusting the QT to the SG of the fish when they arrive instead of such a dramatized acclimation. I think that helped ALOT. They seemed much less stressed going in and began eating much faster than the others.

I want to try a potters or a kuteri (sp? idk) down the road too but I want to make sure I'll have some success with the ones I have first. I also might try to set up a slightly larger established QT down the road too just for dosing the prazi. I don't do it in my display because I don't want to kill off anything in there really. I also don't want to risk any spike from too many worms dying all at once which would most likely be the case for me in their.



I can tell you I have LED's and an apogee par meter. I noticed very very little difference with or without my glass tops. I have a canopy on my tank and I still keep the glass tops on the rear portion. No ones jumping out of my tank.

I think the par difference was less than 10, and my tops were dirty/salt creep and such. So that is nothing as far as I'm concerned.

Good to know thanks!! I'd rather do a completely closed system and avoid netting.
 
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