OK! Enough chat...Starting a 1000g+ Reef
- Thread starter jnarowe
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hsvtoolfool
Premium Member
Cheap metal detector
Cheap metal detector
Ideally, there shouldn't be very much metal in your tank
and plumbing. A hand-held metal detector may be just the
ticket...
$70 Lumber Wizard Metal Detector at WoodCraft.com
Take the pump apart first. If the ring isn't there, buy this gadget
and run it over all the external PVC and spraybars. It'll easily
detect a gold ring through PVC and squawk.
Don't know if I'd use it inside the take (underwater) unless
perhaps inside a zip-lock bag. Near the bottom, the detector
would be useless because it would beep for every screw and
nail in your stand. However, it might be useful around your
rockwork.
Cheap metal detector
Ideally, there shouldn't be very much metal in your tank
and plumbing. A hand-held metal detector may be just the
ticket...
$70 Lumber Wizard Metal Detector at WoodCraft.com
Take the pump apart first. If the ring isn't there, buy this gadget
and run it over all the external PVC and spraybars. It'll easily
detect a gold ring through PVC and squawk.
Don't know if I'd use it inside the take (underwater) unless
perhaps inside a zip-lock bag. Near the bottom, the detector
would be useless because it would beep for every screw and
nail in your stand. However, it might be useful around your
rockwork.
jnarowe
New member
Hey guys...I am out-of-town right now...
hsvtoolfool Thanks for the link. That may really be the best idea.
Kent E yeah, the skimmer is working great. My buddy watching the tank called in a panic. The skimmer was running too wet and "removed" about 50g from the system, depositing it on the floor. LOL...he came in and there was water everywhere!:eek2:
Tank parameters are good though. Salinity is holding at 1.022 and the pH is a little high at 8.4. Since I added the skimmer the pH has been slowly climbing. Maybe someone can chime in with a reason?
The red algae has not been doing well in the refugium so I moved it to the main tank. Not really sure why but I'll have to research it when I get back. I have been dropping turbos into nuisance algae areas of the display like paratroopers and they are doing a fantastic job of knocking down the hair. I am really happy with their performance. The cycle is moving along nicely to the point that the nuisance algae is waning and the coraline is starting to perk up.
no pics until I get back!
hsvtoolfool Thanks for the link. That may really be the best idea.
Kent E yeah, the skimmer is working great. My buddy watching the tank called in a panic. The skimmer was running too wet and "removed" about 50g from the system, depositing it on the floor. LOL...he came in and there was water everywhere!:eek2:
Tank parameters are good though. Salinity is holding at 1.022 and the pH is a little high at 8.4. Since I added the skimmer the pH has been slowly climbing. Maybe someone can chime in with a reason?
The red algae has not been doing well in the refugium so I moved it to the main tank. Not really sure why but I'll have to research it when I get back. I have been dropping turbos into nuisance algae areas of the display like paratroopers and they are doing a fantastic job of knocking down the hair. I am really happy with their performance. The cycle is moving along nicely to the point that the nuisance algae is waning and the coraline is starting to perk up.
no pics until I get back!
Roland Jacques
Premium Member
you should make it so your skimmer so it cant do that. the simplest way is to just run the skimmate drain line into a five gallon bucket about 6" from the bottom. (you may have to use rigid pvc for the part in the bucket.) as the level gose over the drain line the back pressure will shut down your (most skimmers) skimmer.
jnarowe
New member
Marc,
Pictures of what? Rock in a tank?
yourfishman hmmm, somehow I don't think that will quite work. I would need a much better seal on the collection cup, and the amount of air that is being pumped into this thing would overcome the back pressure in the bucket I think. Especially since I have a carbon filter mounted to the top that allows air to escape. Remember I am pumping 100 ltrs/minute through this skimmer!
I have seen other rigs with designs to stop the skimmer using toilet valves etc. but probably the best way would be with a water level based solenoid that would shut down the air pump and process an alarm on the ACIII Pro. It will take some thought but I think I can build it. Right now I am not too worried about it. It's just a cement floor and nothing is in contact with the water. It just takes a little work to clean up.
Pictures of what? Rock in a tank?
yourfishman hmmm, somehow I don't think that will quite work. I would need a much better seal on the collection cup, and the amount of air that is being pumped into this thing would overcome the back pressure in the bucket I think. Especially since I have a carbon filter mounted to the top that allows air to escape. Remember I am pumping 100 ltrs/minute through this skimmer!
I have seen other rigs with designs to stop the skimmer using toilet valves etc. but probably the best way would be with a water level based solenoid that would shut down the air pump and process an alarm on the ACIII Pro. It will take some thought but I think I can build it. Right now I am not too worried about it. It's just a cement floor and nothing is in contact with the water. It just takes a little work to clean up.
tinygiants
New member
That will bite you.
Your skimmer has the ability to drain the tank if it is running to wet and does not shut down.
The way to test if it will shut down is to plug the drain line and watch. In my skimmer, the bubble head immediately collapses. Thus no overflow. If the blocked tube stops the bubble head, then try submerging the tube as suggested earlier.
The output of the pump is not the driving factor. It is how much back pressure does it take to collapse the bubble head that matters. If the carbon filter is the concern, then put that vent off the skimmate container. That way the pressure builds in the collection cup causing the foam to collapse.
Dale
Your skimmer has the ability to drain the tank if it is running to wet and does not shut down.
The way to test if it will shut down is to plug the drain line and watch. In my skimmer, the bubble head immediately collapses. Thus no overflow. If the blocked tube stops the bubble head, then try submerging the tube as suggested earlier.
The output of the pump is not the driving factor. It is how much back pressure does it take to collapse the bubble head that matters. If the carbon filter is the concern, then put that vent off the skimmate container. That way the pressure builds in the collection cup causing the foam to collapse.
Dale
Travis
10 and over club
Here is the toilet valve bucket I used on my old beckett skimmer that liked to overflow on me a lot:
<img src=http://sio.midco.net/cdshelton/website/page2/skimmer/collectionbucket3.jpg>
<img src=http://sio.midco.net/cdshelton/website/page14/skimmer/126_2655.JPG>
The air outlet on the bucket was plumbed outside so it eliminated the need to run carbon even when I was using ozone.
I always adjust my skimmers to run extra dry when I leave town. One less thing for my tank sitter to worry about.
<img src=http://sio.midco.net/cdshelton/website/page2/skimmer/collectionbucket3.jpg>
<img src=http://sio.midco.net/cdshelton/website/page14/skimmer/126_2655.JPG>
The air outlet on the bucket was plumbed outside so it eliminated the need to run carbon even when I was using ozone.
I always adjust my skimmers to run extra dry when I leave town. One less thing for my tank sitter to worry about.
tinygiants
New member
The toilet valve operates just like the ping pong ball method. I for one am going to experment with the earlier suggestion to use the skimmate to create backpressure on the drain line. It seems so simple, that I bet it works.
Dale
Dale
Roland Jacques
Premium Member
your right, you would have to have a good seal on the cup for that method to work. but it dose work even with your air pump. it would not shut down your air source it would only lower the level in your skimmer.
jnarowe
New member
All good feedback guys. I really appreciate that!
Travis I have seen those pics before and I agree it would work but only if I improve the seal on my collection cup.
Dale & yourfishman No doubt it will drain the tank! I know it took out at least 50 gals. yesterday. I did not realize that just collapsing the head would be sufficient, but that does make sense. Right now the collection cup is not sealed and skimmate is gettig forced through the seams as well as filling the bucket.
This is something I will work on when get back for sure!
Travis I have seen those pics before and I agree it would work but only if I improve the seal on my collection cup.
Dale & yourfishman No doubt it will drain the tank! I know it took out at least 50 gals. yesterday. I did not realize that just collapsing the head would be sufficient, but that does make sense. Right now the collection cup is not sealed and skimmate is gettig forced through the seams as well as filling the bucket.
This is something I will work on when get back for sure!
weatherson
Premium Member
Here's a photo of mine. It does work as mentioned in that once the skimmate rises to the point of the bottom of the drain hose (left in the photo), it creates back-pressure and lowers the water level within the skimmer. The line on the right (end cut at an angle to prevent "popping sound" due to condensation at the end) is the air outlet which leads to a carbon filter. These two lines enter the 3-gallon water bottle through tight fitting holes I drilled in the rubber plug. The original screw-on blue cap was also drilled so the hoses fit through but left a lip so that when tightened, it helps to ensure the plug stays in place. This is a very simple, yet effective device to make and holds a good amount of skimmate so as to not need emptying often. 
P.S. - Nice setup you have there. :thumbsup:
Joseph
P.S. - Nice setup you have there. :thumbsup:
Joseph
jnarowe
New member
Thanks Joseph! Yeah the one I have built is like that EXCEPT that I didn't realize that having the tube longer would aid in limiting skimmate over-production. I just plumbed the line to the lid. First thing I will do when I get back is try lengthening it and see how that works.
BTW, I didn't mention in my previous PMs that I used some of your other ideas like your water-change system, as well as a ghetto version of your carbon skimmate off-gas scrubber as seen in previous pics in this thread. Again I have to thank you for all your experimentation and documentation. It has helped me build a much better system than if I didn't have that influence!
BTW, I didn't mention in my previous PMs that I used some of your other ideas like your water-change system, as well as a ghetto version of your carbon skimmate off-gas scrubber as seen in previous pics in this thread. Again I have to thank you for all your experimentation and documentation. It has helped me build a much better system than if I didn't have that influence!
weatherson
Premium Member
I'm glad to help and you are welcome.
jnarowe
New member
OK guys I am back! Couple of chromis bought the farm while I was gone. Tank parameters are good:
Apr 04 2006 12:37:52
Temp pH ORP Cond
77.1 8.43 468 44.1
Ammonia < .5 ppm
Phosphate 0
Nitrate 0
Ca 385
Only major issue is the hair algae is so bad I can't see any sand in the tank. I found a couple of good LFS in Huntington Beach near where I stayed one night, and brought home some frags. For $10 each I got a star polyp colony with about 40 polyps, a rock with sponge, mushrooms, polyps, and feather dusters, and a rock with polyps, algae, and mushrooms. great deal if ya ask me!! I tossed them in the display and they started opening up right away....
Next week in goes my son's mated maroon clowns and there dinner plate size BTA.
Apr 04 2006 12:37:52
Temp pH ORP Cond
77.1 8.43 468 44.1
Ammonia < .5 ppm
Phosphate 0
Nitrate 0
Ca 385
Only major issue is the hair algae is so bad I can't see any sand in the tank. I found a couple of good LFS in Huntington Beach near where I stayed one night, and brought home some frags. For $10 each I got a star polyp colony with about 40 polyps, a rock with sponge, mushrooms, polyps, and feather dusters, and a rock with polyps, algae, and mushrooms. great deal if ya ask me!! I tossed them in the display and they started opening up right away....
Next week in goes my son's mated maroon clowns and there dinner plate size BTA.
jnarowe
New member
Polyps all open. I have discovered a variety of things including what looks to be a baby brittle star. Also found my first aptaisia that came in on the MI rock. It is less than an inch but attached to a 30+ lb. piece of rock.
All looks good. With the massive algae bloom I am getting a lot of respiration and the bubbles that stick to the algae all have blue "eyes" from the 20K lamps. It's a bit surreal!
All looks good. With the massive algae bloom I am getting a lot of respiration and the bubbles that stick to the algae all have blue "eyes" from the 20K lamps. It's a bit surreal!
jnarowe
New member
I need a "nutshell" outline on how to introduce a mated maroon pair and their host BTA into my tank including acclimation, feeding, and placement.
My 8-year-old son made a RASH purchase... This set is so beautiful I cannot describe it!
One complication is that my QT is only a 29g Tall and I think that is too small for this group. The BTA is the size of a dinner plate and the female maroon is 5 - 6 inches and very protective. I feel that this is too much bio-load for the QT and quite frankly just not enough room for them to acclimate properly. My display is 1000g and the only fish in it are 9 chromis that are 1-1/2 - 2". The display has just finished its cycle and there are a few small corals and a lot of nuisance algae. The tank is 35" deep and I am using 1000W MH 20K lamps.
Any suggestions and in particular a plan for acclimation would be greatly appreciated.
My 8-year-old son made a RASH purchase...
This set is so beautiful I cannot describe it!One complication is that my QT is only a 29g Tall and I think that is too small for this group. The BTA is the size of a dinner plate and the female maroon is 5 - 6 inches and very protective. I feel that this is too much bio-load for the QT and quite frankly just not enough room for them to acclimate properly. My display is 1000g and the only fish in it are 9 chromis that are 1-1/2 - 2". The display has just finished its cycle and there are a few small corals and a lot of nuisance algae. The tank is 35" deep and I am using 1000W MH 20K lamps.
Any suggestions and in particular a plan for acclimation would be greatly appreciated.
BrianPlankis
Premium Member
Jonathan,
Any pictures of the maroons and anemone? My advice would be to wear gloves! I had a female maroon that loved to bite my hand/arm every single time I put my arm in the tank. I ended up trading her back to the LFS when she drew blood.
It is too bad you got it this early. The nitrogen cycle may be over, but the other cycles are just beginning. Everything I've read says that an anemone needs an established tank (6-12 months+) to have a good chance at survival. Hopefully your 1000 gallon volume will help your chances. Are you running carbon? Maybe that can help elminate some of the toxins that the article below talks about and will improve their chances of survival. WCs might help as well. Beyond that I can't offer any advice because the only anemone I ever bought died in less than 4 weeks
, so I'm not exactly an expert
I've always really enjoyed reading this:
http://www.marinedepot.com/FORUMS/Topic23945-9-1.aspx
Brian
Any pictures of the maroons and anemone? My advice would be to wear gloves! I had a female maroon that loved to bite my hand/arm every single time I put my arm in the tank. I ended up trading her back to the LFS when she drew blood.
It is too bad you got it this early. The nitrogen cycle may be over, but the other cycles are just beginning. Everything I've read says that an anemone needs an established tank (6-12 months+) to have a good chance at survival. Hopefully your 1000 gallon volume will help your chances. Are you running carbon? Maybe that can help elminate some of the toxins that the article below talks about and will improve their chances of survival. WCs might help as well. Beyond that I can't offer any advice because the only anemone I ever bought died in less than 4 weeks
, so I'm not exactly an expert I've always really enjoyed reading this:
http://www.marinedepot.com/FORUMS/Topic23945-9-1.aspx
Brian
richfavinger
Premium Member
Sadly my Maroon clown started beating up all my other fish. Including a large Fox Face and Kol Tang... This was my 75g, your system may be different. I hope you make out OK, I do love the Maroon Clowns.
Be very mindful of using a net on your Maroon, they have cheek spines, and they can get hitched in a net and VERY hard to get off... For anemone's, drip acclimation is best, over about 2 or 3 hrs.
Be very mindful of using a net on your Maroon, they have cheek spines, and they can get hitched in a net and VERY hard to get off... For anemone's, drip acclimation is best, over about 2 or 3 hrs.
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