I couldn't be positive as I haven't had them both at the same time, i'm thinking the red planet has a deeper red coloring as opposed to the pink coloring of the hyacinthus, again just a guess. There is probably someone on the board here that can answer this one, as i'm wondering the same now as well.
A Smart? Aquarium in Taiwan...
- Thread starter shih87
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I couldn't be positive as I haven't had them both at the same time, i'm thinking the red planet has a deeper red coloring as opposed to the pink coloring of the hyacinthus, again just a guess. There is probably someone on the board here that can answer this one, as i'm wondering the same now as well.
A few more...
Great stuff - I find this one especially sexy!
danfishman
New member
shih87
New member
Quite interested is my Acro hyacinthus colonies in old tank grown to football size with dark Red color (see below)
frag I got 01.2013 which someone told me the shape looks like Red Planet
to football size
However, in new tank, I only keep a small frag and the color and PE (see below) are complete different than its original colony
shih87
New member
Not sure a good or bad pick, but I do cut the newest grow section. I think different light source (before: HQI, now: ATI T5) may do something about it.
Ha, after sahin remind me that his pain experience, I throw them away. However, they did stay in my tank for two days :headwally:
You most read my mind remotely.... I just double my fish to see if I can make any different. However, my N/P is not all zero, instead they are ... NO3 = 0.25ppm, PO4 =0.02ppm.... The new pink color must has something to do with my light, but I do see less PE than old tank, which I plan to bring more PE back.
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
I forgot, are you running GFO or GAC? If yes, I'd reduce those. I have been without GFO in my tank for many months now and my PO4 hovers between 0.02-0.03ppm; NO3 is always 0.2ppm.
I have started to feed a lot more now. I want to see the tank glass get dirty/require cleaning after 3-4 days. Currently dont need to clean for 7 days at least.
shih87
New member
I did not use them. I run full KZ Zeovit system still, but with a 15 gallon refugium in sump. Last night test PO4 =0.02 ppm, and NO3 = 0.25 ppm. My glass will need to clean in 24 hours, but no algae nor cyano found on liver nor sand bed.
Tank was just completed a 1.5 month KH correction for 10 days (from accidentally stay in 11dKH 3 months and down to idea 7.7 dKH). During this KH correction cycle, my Alkalinity and Calcium consumption drop to 1/5 of original, and now start to gradually picking up again (but very slowly). Some wild colonies shown burn tips during this cycle, although looks ok to recovery now.
My first priority now is bring healthy PE back.... feed more to fish and Coral directly are part of plan. Do let me know if any suggestion.
sahin
Ultimate Reefer
If your glass needs cleaning in 24 hours, then I'd say you have excess organics. This is purely a guess. But I am saying that because our PO4 and NO3 reading are identical! But my glass doesnt need cleaning for at LEAST 7 days.
I did run lots of GAC and Zeolite a while back...
I would run the course with your current plan; get the corals healthy. If they pale out more or do not recover, then I'd reduce start3 dose and slow down Zeo reactor.
I'd also carry out at least 15-20% water change per week if possible (not always practical on larger tanks, I know...).
shih87
New member
Yes, my plan seems work now, and I did like you mentioned, did a twice 25% water change in a week last week. I believe the alkalinity correction process is finally end (thank God only no PE + burn tips observation, but no one really died so far), plus the 25% water change helps.... Some noticeable improvements are as below....
3/20
5/30
3/20
5/30
3/20
5/30
3/22
5/17
5/30
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Hi love the way your sps are responding good result, I see you are using the full zeovit system, how much Zeobak and Start are you using? this could be leading to a biofilm on the glass which is why it needs cleaning every 24 hrs, this seems to be common problem with some ZEO systems.
shih87
New member
I hope I can bring the color back soon. BTW, I found I start losing green color and some staghorn turn yellow green than bright green color before. I post my observation on zeovit.com and Alexander said that is typical on a nutrient poorer system. However, I am stretch my head that I did double feed my fish and 10 drops CV a day, and glass get dirty in 24 hours. Anyway, I will try to increase Iodine and lower carbon dosing to see what happen.
BTW, I will visit London next week (visit O2 Slough office actually)... Any suggested local fish store to spend time?
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