Serious Disscussion of Zoanthids Growth

We use to have some great discussions back in the day that went on for pages. HMMMMMMM.... hint hint hint
 
We use to have some great discussions back in the day that went on for pages. HMMMMMMM.... hint hint hint

Yes, I remember this one well, at this point I was still tankless doing lots of reading and researching and not doing much posting.

If you check out this thread you will find that TCU reefer's zoa mat was growing at an alarming rate without fragging.

Here is from his first post on the thread..
sc18.jpg

...and 6 months later..
DSC01115Medium.jpg


I don't think this fragging for growth theory holds water at all. From the looks of that it seems the bigger the colony the faster it grows (exponential growth).
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=11583282#post11583282 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by isistius
i'm not using mh. i switched from 2x150w mh over my 135 to 5x39w t5 over my frag/corner. the output of t5's blows any 150w and almost every 250w out of the water.

I highly doubt that.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14833641#post14833641 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by Fiction2040
I highly doubt that.

I switched from a hood with dual 150w hqi metal halides (and a couple PCs) to a 4" 8 x 54w t5 hood, and it's more light.
 
well yeah, 400watts of T5 before you even get to overdriving, going to be more light then 300w of MH. especially if the MH is older bulbs and the reflectors are cheaper.
 
I was simply confirming that t5's compare to metal halides. Fiction2040 expressed doubt on a broad scale, and i was providing an example.
 
and my metal halide hood was running two 96w PCs, so the total wattage of my metal halide hood and T5 hood was comparable.

hqi + PCs hood = approx 490w
t5 hood = approx 430 w
 
PCs suck though :p either way, of course T5s can compare.

now difference is that you could have had 250w, 400w or even 1000w MHs in the same space, while the laws of physics shaft you on trying to fit more than 8 T5 bulbs over a tank for the most part. so for deeper tanks, MH is the only way to get the intensity/sqft.

but we are getting fairly off topic :p my experience is that zoas tend to not like a TON of light anyway.
 
<a href=showthread.php?s=&postid=14837577#post14837577 target=_blank>Originally posted</a> by areze


...but we are getting fairly off topic :p my experience is that zoas tend to not like a TON of light anyway.

agreed; most of my zoas do best along the bottom of my tank anyway.

my 8-bulb t5 hood has two power switches, they each control 4 bulbs. I have "blues" on one timer (10 hours/day) and my "sunlight" bulbs ( =,< 10k) on another timer. I increased my sunlight timer to 5 hours/day and my RPE's have turned light pink from a red/purple, as an example.

In my experience, it's easy for too much light to drastically fade the colors in my zoas, and the fade is greater than any increase in growth of polyps.

\ I'd rather have a little too less light, with nice colors, and slower polyp growth, than too much light, losing color, even if growth speeds up.
 
I have backed off my daylight spectrum as well(down from 8 to 6 hrs/day), and it seems the zoo's are pleased with the situation. actinics are still on for 10 hours
 
Saw mucho's thread about lack of informative posts... then I came across an old subscription... anyone new want to throw their theories on zoa growth??
 
Good topic and questions

1.Dose
2.Depends on Zoa to much light stresses em out again there not a high light needed coral
3.Yes
4. Id think it would be the complete opposite.. once again stressed em out needs time to heal and regenerate
5. I would think so due to mild current would push all needed supplements around more
6. A consistent dosing schedule light and water chem

My thoughts
Friday
 
Good job Kawicivic. Okay, well you and I can talk then lol.
So...has anyone talked about paly growth as far as feeding?
Do you feed yours? Or do they just get whatever falls from feeding the fish?
 
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